Safari nights
Grazia’s carolyn roberts finds, to her surprise, that going on safari gives the solo traveller the best of both worlds
‘not going with your husband, then?’ the Uber driver asks as he drops me at the airport. ‘No, alone,’ I answer, wondering whether to add, ‘Honeymoon for one!’
I usually like to holiday with a plus one (or a few) but this time around I’m going solo – and in the days before I worry about how different it will be, especially as I’m going on an African safari, which is considered the ultimate honeymoon or once-in-a-lifetime holiday experience. Will I miss having someone to discuss my amazing days with, to share the excitement of spotting a lion or elephant?
I soon find out. After arriving in Zimbabwe, I swap a jumbo jet for a small six-seater plane that’s carrying me and my fellow adventurers out into the African bush. Less than an hour later, after flying over a seemingly never-ending landscape of deserted green bush, the plane (literally) bounces down on the airstrip in the middle of nowhere. Looking out of the window, all I can see is a small hut – and a friendlylooking guide who I later come to know as Edison.
My home for the next three nights is the private Linkwasha camp in west Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park. My room is an en-suite tent – but by tent I mean a luxury room with glass walls and canvas canopy (Glastonbury this isn’t). Roomy for two, it is wonderfully spacious for one, and the views of the grassy plains are incredible, especially as there are animals roaming freely outside. Taking a shower before dinner, I spy a group of cheetahs sauntering past the window – I grab my camera to get a shot of them looking back at me, wondering if in fact I should have got my bikini line done for my trip alone.
As the sun sets, I get ready for my first real test as a solo traveller – dinner. I don’t have to arrive on my own, though – as the animals roam so freely around the camp, guests are escorted to dinner; so it is that my guide, Edison, arrives to pick me up,
armed with a rifle in case of any unexpected close encounters.
I make it safely through the dark to the dining area that turns out to be a cosy open fire around which all the guests sit; I need not have worried about a table for one. And over the next few nights, under starry skies, it is here that everyone gathers for pre-dinner cocktails and delicious meals that include Zambezi bream fishcakes and chickpea tagine, enjoyed with chilled wines.
One magical night, a herd of elephants join us, coming for their own refreshment at the watering hole nearby; a collective hush descends, and a childlike awe comes over us all. It’s certainly fine dining with a twist.
I need not have fretted either about having no one to share my incredible days; everyone swaps stories about the animals they’ve seen – and there’s a lot to talk about for the wildlife encounters are incredible. One evening, Edison sets up stall by the watering hole. More used to sundowners on a balcony, this time I sip my cocktail in the company of elephants and hippos.
Escorted on game drives by Edison I see a pride of lions, buffalo, giraffes, zebra, antelope and more. Hours are spent watching hyenas chasing each other, and who knew that watching a dung beetle push its own dirt up the bush can be so captivating.
Edison is particularly animated to see beautiful African wild dogs, called ‘painted wolves’, which have not been spotted for months. They are the continent’s second most endangered carnivore, rare now despite their common name. It’s good to share in his excitement.
But it’s undoubtedly the lionesses that are the most fascinating to watch as they stalk nimble wildebeest, oblivious to us in an (open-sided) jeep sitting quietly nearby. Having spent some time obsessing over my safari outfits (though I wasn’t sure if anyone would notice – and the whole point is you hope the animals wonõt notice you), I’m glad I replaced my dayglo green with beige, khaki, and more beige.
The true test of this romantic adventure for one, though, is a night spent in the camp’s ‘star bed’ – a sleepover in a treehouse several feet off the ground, as below a pack of lions gnaw their way through their supper. Gulp. Fortified by Chenin Blanc, I fall asleep to the sounds of rustling before being awoken at dawn by Edison (who stayed nearby). As the sun rises into the sky, we drive past the family of lions back to the main camp. I feel a twinge of regret, wishing I could have woken up under the beautiful kaleidoscope sky with a partner in crime.
But it is the only time I feel this way for, on a safari, there is little time to feel lonely – in fact, it is the perfect solo trip. Not only do you go on safari with others and dine with everyone else, there is also a comforting routine to be part of. Game drives are done at sunrise and just before sunset as these are the best times to spot wildlife. In between, there’s plenty more to see and do.
Wilderness Safaris work closely with local communities and one day we visit a local primary school in a nearby village where the children sing us songs, quiz us on our favourite food and tell us their ambitions. It’s like having my own extended family for the day, and going back to camp, their tunes ring happily in my ears. In post-mugabe Zimbabwe, life can still be a struggle, but the positive attitude of the people here, who are proud of their country, stays with me.
A visit to the majestic Victoria Falls is a must when in Zimbabwe, and I stay nearby at the Victoria Falls Safari Club, an exclusive resort with fabulous sunset views. Despite reports of a drought and trickling water, the falls came crashing down metres from where I stand, a stunning natural wonder.
As I finally begin the long journey home, I reflect on my unforgettable time – and realise I needn’t have worried I’d be alone in the bush.