Beyoncé’s stylist Zerina Akers on the meaning behind the clothes in Black Is King

IT’S VERY 2020 that the most talkedabout fashion showcase of the year was not on a catwalk, but on a Disney streaming service. When Beyoncé released her epic visual album, Black Is King, there was poignancy and meaning against the backdrop of Black Lives Matter. And then there was the fashion. The woman behind it is stylist Zerina Akers (right). She talks to Grazia’s Kenya Hunt.

Q. It’s been a while since we’ve seen a film packed with this much fashion.

A. I know! Some of my favourite moments, like the tea party scene (top), could have been a whole music video. We wanted every moment to stand strong in isolation.

Q. How have your own experiences navigating the fashion industry as a Black woman influenced your approach?

A. I first shot with Beyoncé in 2015 and I remember going into department stores to shop for a shoot and feeling like I was not welcome. If a person was kind to me, I’d only shop with them, and I still do. I looked like the young Black girl, and people would look at me like, ‘What are YOU doing here?’ Now when I walk in those same stores, it’s a very different experience.

Q. What was your brief from Beyoncé?

A. It was originally meant to be a few music videos, so I started going into fabric stores and swatching things that spoke to me as I listened to the music in my headphones. Then it evolved and snowballed. Most of all, I wanted her to feel empowered as she was performing.

Q. How has your relationship evolved over the years that you’ve worked together?

A. I was first hired to manage her personal wardrobe, so I really wanted to own that. Even then it was about bringing in interesting Black designers like Reuben Reuel. Then I began pitching other ideas… if I heard her talking about a need for a particular project, I’d go out and find it. I think she realised she could rely on me. From there we continued to grow and developed a trust in each other. She understands the visibility she gives to the brands she wears. She wants women to embrace their bodies and their curves and push limits in the fashion conversation.

Q. The film has layers of cultural and historic references. What did your research process look like?

A. The boards that co-director Kwasi Fordjour created were a starting point, pulling different references that we would dig into. I knew this was going to be on a Disney platform, so I thought it important to have a global conversation with the designers. I worked with designers out of Paris, West Africa, and Black American designers. To support Black American designers is one of the most important things to me in my career.

Q. You filmed this before the Black Lives Matter movement reached the height it did following the killing of George Floyd.

A. Yes, but so many parts of the film speak to this moment. To have the voice of a Black man in this work was so powerful. Beyoncé’s work is usually about female empowerment, but this film is about the story of a Black boy. She shares the screen with men in a way we haven’t really seen before. That was powerful. For her to get behind Black Owned Everything [Zerina’s directory of Blackowned fashion businesses] – we are creating a shift. I think real change is happening. ‘Black Is King’ is available to stream now on Disney+