TARA FAIR MAKES SOME
IDYLLIC MEMORIES OF TURKS AND CAICOS ISLANDS AND A THRILLING MARINE ENCOUNTER
I STOPPED paddling for a moment when I heard a faint squeal of excitement from someone in the kayak behind me. “There was a turtle! It was right there by the boat but it’s swum off now.” Typical. As I’m so often reminded at home, I’m not much good at spotting things and it would seem that’s still true while bobbing in crystal blue waters framed by ancient mangroves. I was only halfway through this self-pitying thought when a school of silver fish whooshed past underneath my kayak, clearing to reveal not one, not two, but three huge turtles effortlessly pushing themselves through the water.
One surfaced right in front of me to take a big gulp of air and check us out before slipping back beneath the water. The truth about the Turks and Caicos is that despite my sub-par observational skills, I needn’t have worried about not being able to spot the natural beauty. It was everywhere. On our three-hour kayak eco-tour of the complex mangrove root systems, we saw more than a dozen curious turtles navigating the waterways. Paddlers can also spot nurse and lemon sharks, stingrays and fish, as well as egrets, herons, raptors and small species of birds above the vegetation. With turquoise waters and white sand beaches, Turks and Caicos could take the easy route and retire comfortably at the top of the world’s best luxury fly-and-flop destinations.
But with breathtaking natural parks, nature reserves, coral reefs teeming with life and a culture of quality and sustainability, the islands deserve to be so much more than just a lounging zone. The British Overseas Territory is southeast of The Bahamas and consists of 40 low-lying coral islands and uninhabited cays in two island groups. The British ties mean everyone speaks English and drives on the left, but they use US dollars and you’ll need a US plug adapter. Popular islands include Providenciales (known for the beautiful Grace Bay Beach), Grand Turk, North Caicos, South Caicos, Middle Caicos, Pine Cay, Ambergris Cay, Parrot Cay and Salt Cay. The doors to this tropical paradise have been thrown open by Virgin Atlantic, which launched direct flights from Heathrow to Providenciales last November. Turks and Caicos prides itself on being a luxury location and fans include Paul McCartney, Oprah, Heidi Klum and the Kardashians. An extensive barrier reef about a mile offshore protects many of the most popular beach spots from the swells of the Atlantic, keeping the waters at the shore calm.
Grace Bay Beach, the World Travel Awards’ World’s Leading Beach Destination, is breathtaking. I made the most of my jet lag after waking at 5am to sit on its soft white sand. There wasn’t a single rock, piece of seaweed or litter as far as the eye could see. Sustainability and ecotourism are at the very heart of life in Turks and Caicos. Restaurateurs, local businessmen and tour operators sing from the same hymn sheet of
quality over quantity and sustainability over short-term gain.
The emphasis on high-end, lowimpact tourism has worked to temper the impact of development and helped to maintain the delicate balance between commercial and environmental interests. There are currently six hotels under construction across the islands but government representatives insist developments will be counterweighted by
investment in the environment and maintaining a premium pricepoint to prevent overcrowding. My hotel, the luxurious Wymara Resort and Villas, is situated on this perfect beach. Wymara was refurbished in 2020 and benefits from a sophisticated, contemporary feel. To make the most of your time in paradise, get a travel guide. Luxury Experiences Turks and Caicos creates bespoke itineraries. It caters for everyone and has handpicked its partners based on quality and sustainability.
Husband and wife Val and Susan Kalliecharan created and manage the company and use personal contacts to ensure trips run smoothly.
“Being on the water is the best way to experience the islands,” Val said on our way to an eco-kayaking tour – and he was right (luxuryexperiencesturksandcaicos.com). The Big Blue Collective offers boating, snorkelling, scuba diving, kayaking, paddleboarding and ecotours. Try kayaking or paddleboarding in the Princess
Alexandra Nature Reserve, travelling quietly through the channels of mangrove forests opposite the Leeward base in the Providenciales. A highlight of our holiday was a Big Blue Collective catamaran tour of the bays before stopping for a swim and a beautifully cooked buffet on board. Our guide Ali told us about one of the world’s largest coral barrier reefs, which is part of the 6,500-acre Princess Alexandra National Park. Measuring around 340miles, it provides some of the best snorkelling and diving spots, showcasing a vibrant ecosystem with colourful fish, coral formations, and the chance to see sea turtles and dolphins. And if you are in Turks and Caicos between January and April you’ve got a good chance of spotting humpback whales as they migrate to warmer waters in the Dominican Republic for mating season. Grand Turk and Salt Cay are the best places for sightings.
But don’t worry if you miss the humpback window – dolphins and pilot whales frequent these waters year (bigbluecollective.com).