DONATELLA VERSACE

The legendary designer has overcome personal tragedy to remain at the forefront of fashion – and her new collections are stronger than ever. FASHION ICON

Fashion can be a cruel creature that sometimes kills its young; and there were times, in the past, when it seemed as if Donatella Versace might be destroyed by the ravenous demands of the industry that had made her famous. Yet at the age of 61, she has emerged from the dark tragedy that engulfed her – the brutal murder of her brother Gianni in 1997 – into a remarkable creative renaissance. This has seen her produce a series of memorable collections that have energised Versace, with her vision of strong, independent and courageous women.

‘I love the power of clothing, and how it expresses so much about the way we live our lives,’ she said, when I interviewed her this summer; and certainly, that power was evident again on the Versace runway in September, when Donatella presented a collection that emanated a sense of athleticism and energy. Models of different sizes, ages and ethnicities strode along the catwalk – Naomi Campbell, Jourdan Dunn, Gigi Hadid, among others – wearing sleek sportswear, parkas and flat sandals, in a way that spoke of liberation, rather than passivity. A similar spirit of sisterhood was on display on the front row, where Serena Williams watched the show; and afterwards, at a dinner that Donatella hosted in her private apartment at the Versace palazzo in Milan. There was the tennis star again, a powerful yet voluptuous figure in a turquoise Versace cropped top, enveloping her friend Donatella in a warm embrace. It was a tender moment, with an emotional authenticity that isn’t always apparent in the brittle world of fashion; and yet Donatella evokes genuine admiration from many other of her friends, including Riccardo Tisci (who chose her to appear in his Givenchy advertising campaign, crediting her ‘truly iconic’ status); Christopher Kane (she hired him as a designer soon after he left Central Saint Martins, and he still cites her profound influence on his career); and Miuccia Prada (they have a longstanding and close rapport, with a shared belief in feminism).

‘I understand the insecurity of women, and I try to empower them,’ said Donatella during our conversation earlier this year. But she also understands female strength – as the daughter of a remarkably independentminded mother, who established her own successful fashion business in southern Italy, during an era where very few women were financially autonomous. ‘I can always hear her – if I close my eyes, I can still hear her voice saying, “Don’t take anything for granted – don’t think men are going to support you, you must support yourself.”’

Aside from her work ethic, Donatella has never forgotten the importance of the women who wear her designs. ‘If you have the human factor missing, it doesn’t work. Women give soul to the clothes they wear. Without that, it’s just a coat or a dress.’ And all the while, Donatella herself brings heart and soul to fashion; evidence, if ever we needed it, that the aftermath of anguish can also lead towards the light…