Your Building Dilemmas Solved
Looking for expert advice on your project? Our team of homebuilding experts are here to answer your need-to-know questions. This month, they tackle internal wall insulation, replacing old plumbing, conservatories and Building Regulations
From plumbing, conservatories, Building Regulations and insulation, our experts solve your building questions
Q
Our conservatory was built in 1999. The brickwork either side of the double doors is cracking — is this subsidence?
A
IAN ROCK SAYS: One conservatories of the problems is that they with are exempt from the Building Regulations so the quality of construction can be poor. The foundations is one area where money is saved, so it’s common for a conservatory to be built on a concrete floor slab, rather than trench foundations. Shallow slabs tend to move about in tune with seasonal ground movement, and this may cause cracking to masonry.
Subsidence, on the other hand, occurs where support from the ground beneath a wall is removed, for example where long-term drain leakage has made the ground marshy and aggressive weak, or tree after roots prolonged can suck dry out spells moisture, where causing clay subsoils to shrink back violently. Subsidence cracking is usually stepped and tapered, rising upwards from the ground level. If themovement apparent in your brickwork is not due to subsidence, then it may be repairable by a good brickie, perhaps with partial rebuilding if necessary. However, if the cause of the movement is due to inadequate or defective foundations then the cost of remedial work such as underpinning would be prohibitive. Most buildings insurance policies have hefty excesses for such works. In this case the best option would be to have the conservatory replaced by a new extension, which although dearer to build should add significantly more value to the home.
Q
I am in the process of buying a Victorian terraced house in Cumbria made of porous local stone. I want to fit internal wall insulation but have read conflicting advice about whether the whole system should be breathable to avoid build up of condensation; and whether a waterproof membrane should be applied immediately inside the stone wall to stop any moisture getting through.
What is the best solution?
A
TIM PULLEN SAYS: Both options will work. The first option needs breathable material throughout the wall — so no plastics, no gypsum plaster and no vinyl paint. External decoration would also have to be lime-wash paint, or similar; there are now clay and chalk-based paints that work well.
Q
My wife and I are taking on a renovation of a dated 1950s bungalow which has fallen into disrepair. One of the biggest challenges is updating the plumbing which looks faulty. What do we need to consider before updating the whole system?
A
JASON ORME SAYS: than properties, pipes properly is connected dangerous. connected Old annoying earthed it’s to and worth the or But to faulty electrical and checking cross the when problematic heating plumbing bonded. taking main, that system any The and on is copper rather boiler older often there are is transmit Before a possibility you through begin, that the you copper any should faults to also the in taps. establish it could whether system that it is needs the whole updating plumbing or whether and heating you just need to make focused changes, as some older plumbing components can be replaced on an ad-hoc basis. Your old brass stopcock is your insurance against major water damage; if you can’t access it or turn it, then it’s time to get a new one. Fortunately, stopcocks have come a long way and switch- based easy piping amazingly piping years of plumbing Next, leaks. to but stopcocks, has needs you’ll turn remains piping The resilient come the need replacing. typical water in on such the a to but standard consider enormously more off does as cost in Copper Surestop, an common degrade. three-bed, for whether emergency. replacing in piping make recent Plastic cause your one- is it bath making need Boilers to home tear good tend up is the to to around floors lose access their and it £1,000. can walls reliability add you However, £500. might too. If the old, boiler you might in the want house to think is more about than replacing 10 years it requiring — particularly a cold water if it is tank a vented in the loft. system That could be around £2,000. Question the heat output of old radiators, too, as there’s a chance they will be single panel models if your property is that old. By upgrading to double panel, double convector radiators – known as Type 22 – you will feel a big improvement in warmth. Depending on size, radiators cost as little as £50.
“Establish whether it is the whole plumbing and heating system that needs updating or whether you just need to make focused changes”
Finally, assess the mechanics of the taps, which can seize up over time, making them difficult to fully turn off. While they might be in working order, if you plan to undertake a large renovation of the bungalow then you might want to update these regardless as fashions change. Prices vary, but aim to pay around £150 per tap.
Q
I’ve just bought a house and plan to extend to add more space. Being a novice to building projects, I’ve heard I need to comply with certain Building Regulations. What does this involve?
A
MICHAEL HOLMES SAYS: The Building Regulations are to alterations health, almost hygiene, minimum all to existing new safety, building requirements houses. welfare, work, There convenience, that including to control apply energy a legal obligation, efficiency and and failure sustainability, to meet they them are is a criminal offence. Ensuring construction complies with the regulations is essential from the outset to ensure costly mistakes don’t occur further down the line. Plus, if you do undertake work without getting it approved, it is likely to make selling the property in the future difficult. While some work won’t require Building Regs’ approval (such as minor repairs), an extension will involve the removal of a loadbearing element, (potentially) rewiring and foundations, and therefore require approval. The next step will be to decide the type of application you need. There are two options: a Full Plans application or a Building Notice application. The latter will more often than not be intended for minor works, while Full Plans is for substantial redesigns. Both need to be submitted to your local authority or building control body before you start work on site, and you will need to pay the appropriate fee, which can be up to several thousand pounds for major extensions. You’re likely to need a structural engineer, too, to provide calculations for foundations, roof design and any structural alterations, and use an architect or designer to produce detailed drawings, at a cost of between £2,000 and £ 5,000 plus VAT for a typical, straightforward extension. with An the experienced regulations designer and should will be know familiar how to achieve what you want with minimal compromise in terms of layout and aesthetics. When the design is ready, get in touch with a certified building control body, which include approved inspectors in the private sector, as well as your local authority’s office. After you’ve submitted your application, including a written submission of your intention to start work, you can legally begin construction after two working days. If you have instead made a Full Plans submission, bear in mind that the local authority will not yet have had opportunity to review drawings or advise on them, but you can expect a response within two weeks to confirm receipt. So if possible, wait for the verdict to be sure that no serious changes are required. Approval confirmed, it will remain valid for three years after the date of submission and, once work has started, there is no time limit for completion. If you decide to make slight alterations to the design once work has started, this can usually be done as a minor adjustment, but always confirm with the Building Regulations inspector before proceeding. Importantly, there will be certain key stages during the construction that will require inspection, including during excavations for foundations, damp-proof course installation, drainage testing and construction of floor joists and roof timbers, plus more. You can request an inspection by phone, email or in writing, but you must give sufficient notice to allow a visit to be scheduled. Once the work is completed, a final inspection will take place and you’ll receive an approval certificate or letter confirming compliance.