BERLIN
With its rich history, design heritage and lively antiques and flea market culture, Berlin is one of the world’s most exciting cities to explore, as ELEANOR O’KANE discovers
Enjoying its re- emergence as one of the most cultural cities in the world, Berlin first made its mark on the global map in the 1920s. Then it was Europe’s industrial heart, and the city experienced a boom in culture that turned it into a cradle of creativity. In that period, the likes of poet and playwright Bertolt Brecht, Impressionist painter Max Liebermann and touring dance sensation Josephine Baker helped to make the city’s salons, cafes, opera houses and theatres the most electrifying in Europe. Darker days followed and throughout the 20th century the city has undergone change after change as political events left their mark. With the reunification of Germany in 1990, the city was reinstated as the capital and Berlin has reclaimed its reputation as a dynamic and culturally charged destination.
Due to its multi-layered back story and influences, the city caters well for those whose tastes range from the traditional to the unorthodox. If Berlin’s legendary contemporary art and nightlife aren’t on your to- do list, you can happily spend your time immersing yourself in the city’s historic sights. A good place to start is at one of the museums, of which there are more than 150. The UNESCO World Heritage-listed Museum Island is home to five of the greatest – all devoted to classical treasures – including the Neues Museum and the Bode Museum. Across the city there are plenty of other places for fans of interiors and antiques, including the Knoblauchhaus. This elegant baroque building is a perfect showcase for the native Biedermeier style, which influenced furniture design in
In recent years the hip Neukölln district has benefited from an explosion of design shops and cafes
Germany and neighbouring countries in the early half of the 19th century. The house was owned by the Knoblauch family, who played an active part in Berlin’s social and political scene and the exhibits tell the story of their lives.
Another baroque treasure is the Köpenick Palace. Set on a lake and surrounded by parkland, the castle contains important state collections. Among its antique treasures are furniture, porcelain, silver and tapestries, including pieces from the great houses of Europe. In an early 18th- century house in the district of Charlottenburg, the Ceramics Museum exhibits works from German- speaking countries, with the collection including artefacts from 19th- century ceramics to contemporary pieces. There are items inspired by major movements such as art nouveau (known in German as jugendstil), as well as Bauhaus and Expressionism, an avant- garde style that originated in pre-First World War Germany.
It’s worth setting aside a day to visit Charlottenburg Palace, the largest of Berlin’s existing royal houses and former home to the once-powerful Prussian royal family. Highlights of the house include the silberkammer, or ‘silver chamber’, which holds historical collections of porcelain and glass, as well as dazzling silver and gold tableware. Originally built at the end of the 17th century, this house was a favourite of the Prussian royals, and was extended to become the vast and impressive palace it is today. Within its walls you’ll discover some of Europe’s finest rococo interiors, as well as the largest collection of 18th- century French paintings outside France.
This is a city where design matters and shoppers are spoilt for choice. Fans of mid- century and Scandi-inspired style will love Vintage Galore (vintagegalore.de), located in the hip Neukölln district. This temple of teak stocks furniture, retro pieces including co ee pots and ceramics and a wide range of lighting. In recent years the area has benefited from an explosion of design shops and cafes and is definitely worth spending time in. Ten minutes’ walk from Vintage Galore is Süper Store (sueperstore.de), founded by an artist and a designer
to sell everyday items that have been elevated to things of beauty through craftsmanship. Look out for traditional porcelain jugs from Galicia in Spain and sculpted oak dining chairs from Italian firm Mattiazzi. In the Kreuzberg district, Hallesches Haus (hallescheshaus.com) is a kind of general store where you’ll find it hard to limit yourself. Keep an eye out for the mini cactus vases, which cut a dash in any setting, as do the reproduction 19th- century botanical wall charts. There’s also a cafe selling locally sourced food, making it a good spot for brunch or afternoon tea. The Mitte district is home to Parkhaus (parkhausberlin.de), one of the city’s most inviting interiors stores. The exquisitely curated showroom features items discovered on the owner’s global travels. For a quintessential Berlin experience,
visit the Kaufhaus des Westens department store, better known as KaDeWe (kadewe.de). Part of local life for more than a century, KaDeWe opened its doors in 1907. It was destroyed by Allied bombs in 1943, but reopened in 1950 and remains one of the city’s landmarks.
Many of the city’s neighbourhoods hold weekly flea markets and there’s plenty of choice at the weekends. In the former East German district of Friedrichshain – now one of the city’s most vibrant areas – there’s a Sunday flea market on Erich- Steinfurth Strasse; it takes place all day every Sunday and features up to 150 dealers. You can also find pieces of furniture and antiques there, and because of this it is also known as a collectors’ market. One of the most popular, not just for its flea market finds, takes place every Sunday at the south-west corner of Mauerpark, a former frontier between East and West Berlin (flohmarktimmauerpark.de). With a party atmosphere, it has street food and live music too. For a more antiques-focused experience, the Charlottenburg district is home to the city’s oldest and largest flea market, running since 1978 (berlinertroedelmarkt.com). Taking place every Saturday and Sunday on Strasse des 17 Juni, the Trödelmarkt attracts around 200 stallholders in high summer. It features both antiques and flea finds, and a separate arts and crafts market. * For more on Berlin, visit the tourist board website visitberlin.de