Leeuwarden
With its attractive, cafe-lined canals and elegant gabled houses, this little-known Dutch city has much to offer visitors, says Femke Haijtema LEEUWARDEN IS LOVELY – a really quaint Dutch town with a beautiful 17th- century centre and a very laid-back feel. It di ers from other cities in the Netherlands, not just because it’s prettier, but it’s also very, very friendly. People really know each other here and there’s a great sense of community. There’s also a thriving alternative scene with lots of street art and music, and younger people get involved in organising events such as small music festivals, like ‘ Welcome to the Village’ (welcometothevillage.nl).
But Leeuwarden’s terrain is what makes it extra special – by Dutch standards, it’s hilly! The oldest part of the city is built on artificial mounds that were created in the 17th century to protect the houses from flooding. Nowhere else in Holland has hills, and you really do notice that the streets are going up, which is a unique feeling in a country that is as flat as a football field.
Sights
Leeuwarden is perfect for a weekend break as you can get everywhere on foot. Orientate yourself by taking a walking tour with A Guide to Leeuwarden (aguidetoleeuwarden.nl). Every Saturday their friendly guides o er free tours of the city starting at noon from the Oldehove (oldehove.eu) Leeuwarden’s answer to the Leaning Tower of Pisa. More specialised walks include a guided tour of the city’s excellent street art or a walk and talk that tells the story of Mata Hari, our most famous resident. In the evenings, there is usually something happening at Blokhuispoort, Leeuwarden’s old prison, which has been refurbished and now contains a thriving arts centre as well as shops, restaurants and a hotel. My favourite area is where the Princessehof National Museum of Ceramics is located. The museum is in an old palace on The Grote Kerkstraat, Leeuwarden’s oldest street, which runs from the Oldehove to the Grote Kerk (the Great Church). The church dates back to around 1300, and was built on the handmade mounds that protected the town from the sea, and is slightly raised, with smaller streets running down from either side. It’s a lovely area in which to lose yourself. My favourite shops include Emmakade Antiek (emmakadeantiek.nl), which is a very eclectic and stylish antiques shop;
the owners live next door and regularly open the doors to their amazing house as well. I buy lots of vintage dresses, petticoats and whatnot at LIZ. There are also plenty of good independent shops in the 17th- century centre of town, along Kleine Kerkstraat.
Music
‘ Welcome to the Village’ (info@ welcometothevillage.nl) is a wonderful festival for absolutely everyone and I always take my kids during the day (before partying well into the night!) Podium Asteriks (podiumasteriks.nl), is a cool independent music stage in the old prison, run by volunteers, and there is always something interesting going on.
Food and drink
We have very few big chains in Leeuwarden, typically our bars and restaurants are run by small independent producers, who are passionate about what they are doing. They are part of the community they are serving so they put their heart and soul into what they do. Eindeloos (restauranteindeloos.nl) is the best restaurant in town, I think. They serve locally sourced meat and vegetables all cooked by a great, committed chef, Willem Schaafsma, who even moves his restaurant to the ‘ Welcome to the Village’ festival for a couple of days each summer. Proefverlof (proefverlof. frl) situated in the old prison has a great industrial location and good menu. Post Plaza (post-plaza.nl) is the cafe inside the beautiful old post o ce, which is now a hotel, and it’s a great place for lunch. De Spoek (cafedespoek.nl) is an excellent bar
with occasional live music and very friendly sta , and they have an extensive whisky menu. If craft beers are more your thing then try De Markies (de-markies.nl), the perfect pub with an amazing number of great beers and ales, run by a lovely young couple. Don’t leave Leeuwarden without having tried Grutte Pier Triple ale (gruttepierbrouwerij.com), a fabulous strong ale from Friesland, named after a 16th- century freedom fighter, who was supposedly very tall (Pier the Great), or Beerenburger (boomsma.frl), a kind of spiced gin and a famous Frisian drink. Suikerbrood, sugary bread, is another local delicacy, which can be bought in bakeries and cafes throughout the city. But, be warned, Frisians definitely have a sweet tooth!
Accommodation
The Post Plaza Hotel (post-plaza.nl) is situated in the city’s former post o ce which has recently undergone a fantastic makeover and is the perfect place to stay if you’re after a little relaxed glamour. The Stadhouderlijk Hof (hotelstadhouderlijkhof.nl) was once a royal palace and the bedrooms and communal areas have a suitably regal and traditional feel.
For something a little out of the ordinary, there is the newly opened Alibi (alibihostel.nl) which is based in Leeuwarden’s old prison. The rooms were once cells and are simply but stylishly furnished. They include private doubles as well as traditional dorms. There is also a quirky wooden cabin opposite the main hostel.