Buy vintage fashion
Lucy Bishop of Kerry Taylor Auctions, the world’s leading auction house specialising in vintage fashion, ne antique costume and textiles, answers our questions…
What should you look for when buying a piece of clothing?
Condition is important, so check for staining or alterations. Many vintage couture pieces are unlabelled, so examine the overall quality of the garment. If the seam is hand-finished and the interior is as beautiful as the exterior, it might be special.
How do you know you are paying the right amount for a piece?
It’s usually better value to buy from a reputable auction house, as you’ll be bidding on the open market. If you buy from a high-end vintage store, as with modern retailers, you’ll pay a mark-up. If you see something you like, do some research into the designer and what their pieces usually sell for.
Is there anything worth investing in at the moment?
The market is constantly changing. At present some swinging Sixties London boutique labels are undervalued, so really great outfits by Mary Quant and Tommy Nutter may be a good purchase if they are going cheap.
What are the benefits of buying fashion at auction?
As auctioneers we guarantee everything we sell, which means that when you buy from us, you are buying an accurately catalogued and authentic piece. Being sure that the item is dated and attributed correctly can also give you the confidence to bid strongly on the pieces you have fallen in love with. Usually, as long as you don’t alter or damage the garment, you can resell it at auction for around the same price you paid, sometimes a lot more. The phrase ‘investment piece’ is thrown around a lot these days but, in terms of vintage fashion, it is true.
What are the most valuable pieces?
Mid-century Paris couture by Christian Dior and Balenciaga and early 1920s-30s pieces by Chanel or 1940s Schiaparelli.
What should someone expect to pay for a piece of antique or vintage fashion?
Prices at our auction start at £200 for one really fantastic dress or a small group of wearable pieces.
Are there bargains around? Yes, always. Especially if you think in terms of how easily you can spend £300 on the high street on pieces that will end up in the bin.
What are the best designers to collect?
There are lots: Dior, Balenciaga, Thea Porter, Ossie Clark, Madame Grès. Find a designer you love and research them.
Should someone buy vintage fashion to wear or to keep in a box?
Most vintage can be worn if looked after carefully. But I wouldn’t recommend wearing a museum-worthy piece. A moss crepe Ossie Clark dress? Yes, wear. A 1940s velvet Schiaparelli jacket? No. Do not wear! kerrytaylorauctions.com