A great escape

Portrait Milano is a design classic in the making – quiet luxury in a feast of a city

WE shouldn’t need to convince you that a weekend break in Milan is a good idea. Of course it’s the centre of contemporary design, but also it’s the place for delicious food, great shopping and beautiful architecture. However, we might need to persuade you of its suitability as a relaxing, luxurious escape. Enter Portrait Milano.

Located just off the city’s buzzy main shopping street, the Portrait is a design retreat in the most literal sense. This is noticeable from the moment you enter; heading through an elegant gateway into a spectacular courtyard, we were immediately swept away by the spatial luxury and sheer sense of quiet. The original building – the hotel is in a reclaimed seminary – takes centre stage. This is that rare hotel conversion of a characterful building; one that is truly respectful of the original bones yet doesn’t compromise on any front. Our room, located off the first floor loggia, was decorated in tones of red, umber and gold. It was generous and inviting – most indulgent was the large dressing room and all-marble bathroom. The look is incredibly Italian. Indeed, the hotel is owned by the Ferragamo family, so style is the overriding experience, with chic furniture, beautifully curated.

A hotel’s allure is about the public spaces too, and these are just as perfectly executed – from the intimate but buzzy bar clearly in vogue with the local fashion crowd to the remarkably sunny terrace for a gelato or glass of Franciacorta. Just as delightfully surprising was the breakfast – a feast of flavours, with Italian cakes, breads and amazing coffee a real highlight.

Hotels are about escape, ultimately. The Portrait Milano allows that in every sense – a quiet design-soon-to-be classic at the heart of a wonderful city.

I HAVE always been drawn to artist Vilhelm Hammershøi’s minimal and theatrical work, which radiates a sense of peace thanks to his approach to space, colour, shadow and light. For years, he worked in a street called Strandgade in Christianshavn. I live just a few minutes’ walk from his former home and atelier. My own studio, housed in a former art museum, still retains its original skylights and wooden floorboards, and is a daily reminder of how history and modernity collide in this compact and creative city.

I love strolling along Strandgade with my dog,

Lille, admiring its beautiful 18th-century houses and courtyards. From there, I often continue past the Opera House and enjoy the sparkle from the three magnificent light sculptures by contemporary artist Olafur Eliasson.

I recommend heading over the bridge to Krudtløbsvej, where charming houseboats are moored. If you walk a bit further, you’ll find vegetarian and seafood restaurant La Banchina (top middle), located in Refshaleøen, a former shipyard. I am a pescatarian, so I appreciate its focus on fresh greens and delicious seafood. You can enjoy a meal, lounge by the water, and even take a swim in the dock. I love the laid-back atmosphere.

Christianshavn (top left) is known for its canals, and Friendships (self-drive electric boats) offer a fantastic way to explore Copenhagen from the waterside. I highly recommend renting one so that you can experience the canals at your own pace.

I love going to Rosforth & Rosforth, an importer of natural wine that has a store below the Knippelsbro (Knippel Bridge). Every summer, it offers family style social dining, serving wine and food outside its shop along the canal, and sometimes special guest chefs take the reins. It’s truly special to sit under the bridge enjoying good food and wine.

Across the bridge from Christianshavn, is a favourite of mine: just behind the Nyhavn Canal, Hotel Sanders (top right) is a stroll away from Amalienborg Palace, the Royal Theatre, Christiansborg Palace and the

Royal Danish Opera. Its bar, TATA, serves the best classic cocktails in town. The perfect way to end the day.

olivergustav.com