How Britain lives Smart solutions for low-energy living
Tailor your fuel-saving measures to the period of your property and reap the financial rewards
‘Every home should have a low-energy strategy and a good balance between heating and ventilation,’ says energyefficiency expert David Hilton, who runs the Heat and Energy consultancy in Swindon, . ‘But no two homes are the same. There are specific things you should address, depending on the period of your house.’
GEORGIAN AND EARLIER
One key thing to tackle is the pointing – the mortar between bricks or stonework. Effective pointing keeps your home watertight and free from leaks, damp and mould, which make it difficult to keep warm. ‘In older properties any remedial work should be done with the correct materials,’ David explains. ‘In homes built before 1920, it’s likely lime mortar will have been used. This is ‘vapour-open’ allowing the building to breathe. It’s vital that the contractor uses this traditional material for repair rather than standard modern mortar as the two won’t sit together well and could cause damage and cracks.’
SEALING SASH WINDOWS
Paned Georgian windows are difficult to get airtight, says David. ‘One solution is to add bespoke secondary glazing, which mimics the structural line and can reduce heat loss by up to 70 per cent. Consider replacing original glass, which will be thin.’
EFFICIENT FLOORING
Solid floors may have been laid directly onto compacted earth. ‘Damp will rise up from the soil base,’ David points out. ‘The best way to remedy this is to lift the floor, introduce an air gap, and re-lay the flooring.’ Solid floors can also be dug out and have natural breathable products such as sheep’s wool, hemp fibre, cellulose or wood fibreboard laid below to insulate them. This big job has implications for pipework, damp-proofing and existing flooring so is best undertaken as part of a major renovation.
THE BEST INSULATION
If you can’t fit external wall insulation, internal wall insulation can be highly effective, David says. The most economical option is insulation boards glued to internal walls and covered with plasterboard, but this will make rooms smaller. Another option is to use aerogel, which is the thinnest insulation available, but it is expensive.
VICTORIAN AND EDWARDIAN
Properties of this age weren’t designed with heating systems, says David. Radiators and boilers will have been added over the years but may not be the most efficient designs. ‘For instance, there may be radiators in rooms miles away from the boiler that have never worked properly. I’d always recommend having the whole system balanced by a specialist heating engineer.’
Balancing reduces pressure on the boiler and pipework, so cuts energy use. It’s also worth having the heating system ‘powerflushed’ to remove silt that may be causing sluggishness, and fitting thermostatic valves to radiators that aren’t in regular use.
‘I’d also consider motion sensors,’ adds David. ‘If a room has been empty for 20 minutes, these will slowly lower the temperature so you don’t have to run around the house switching radiators off.
CHECKING CHIMNEYS
Blocking up a chimney that’s not being used will lead to damp and eventually there will be structural problems,’ says David. ‘Try specialist devices such as chimney balloons and dampers that reduce draughts while allowing ventilation to pass through.’ Your chimney should also be capped with a rainproof ventilated cowl to minimise damp.
DRAUGHT-FREE FLOORING
Seal gaps within original floorboards with yachting caulk for strength and draught strips, and between flooring and skirting board with decorator’s caulk. David explains that a common problem is floors that have been back-filled with concrete as this causes moisture to build up, making the floor cold and potentially corroding floorboards and joists. ‘Deal with this by lifting the boards and laying insulation and a breathable membrane below to achieve a balance between energy-efficiency and ventilation,’ says David.
SEALING CELLARS
A home with a cellar is a bonus as the floor above this space is likely to be made from suspended timber. You can either lay rigid insulation boards, or layer mineral insulation between the joists, held up by plastic meshing.
TWENTIES AND THIRTIES
During this significant period in house-building, new methods of construction and materials were introduced. Lime mortar was replaced by modern equivalents, and render became widespread as an exterior finish. ‘With a house of this period, I’d always try to insulate on the outside,’ says
David. ‘This adds a continuous enveloped layer to the house and if you’re intending to replace the windows it’s a good idea to do it at the same time.’
IMPROVE VENTILATION Often ventilation is overlooked in homes of this period, which might rely on a single kitchen extractor on the ground floor to bring fresh air into the entire house or apartment. ‘You might be able to centralise your fans so that fresh air can be drawn in more effectively,’ says David.
‘You’ll need advice from a ventilation expert. The best way to find one is to visit one of the many regional self-build shows and exhibitions, or the National Self-Build and Renovation Centre in Swindon.’
KEEPING DRAUGHTS OUT
A major challenge is having effective draught control without compromising ventilation. ‘It’s important not to block airbricks, for example, and to choose good quality products such as brushes, sealants and extruded strips of profiled foam and rubber to prevent air leaking out around doors and windows,’ says Neil Marshall from the National Insulation Association. ‘Look for products which carry the BS 7386:1997 approval mark.’
NEW FRONT DOOR
This not only adds kerb appeal but will also significantly reduce energy loss from your home. ‘Replacing an existing external door with an insulated one can save you money in the long run,’ says Claire Osborne, an energy expert at uSwitch.com.