A better garlic bread

Garlic bread is one of life’s finest, simplest pleasures, up there with a roast chicken and a perfect salad with a lemon dressing.

It’s basic and shouldn’t be overthought. But don’t treat this, or mistake it, as garlic butter on toast

– or worse, soggy bread soaked in garlic butter; garlic bread is neither.

The secret is to treat it like French toast in the sense that you really, truly do need to soak the bread in butter, before baking it in the oven and ensuring the edges turn golden brown and crisped, while the centre stays soft and tender. Yes, the anchovies are a secret weapon, but the garlic cloves, slowly softening and caramelising in the oil, are the real hero.

SERVES 4-8

1 garlic bulb, cloves separated, peeled and crushed with the back of a knife

125ml olive oil

60g tin of anchovies, drained 125g unsalted butter,

softened

Pinch of chilli flakes

(optional)

Salt and freshly ground

black pepper

1 or 2 baguettes, halved

lengthways

Flaky sea salt

Finely chopped parsley

(optional)

1 Preheat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas mark 7. Heat the garlic and olive oil in a small pan over a medium heat, cooking until the garlic starts to audibly sizzle.

2 Reduce to a very low heat and continue to cook until the garlic is tender and golden brown, which should take about 15-20min. Add the drained anchovies and remove the pan from the heat.

3 Transfer the oil and garlic mixture to a medium-sized bowl along with the butter and chilli flakes. Using a fork, mash everything together so the garlic cloves break down and everything turns into a delicious, creamy paste. Season with salt and pepper.

4 Using a spoon, evenly distribute the butter mixture onto each cut half of bread, letting it really soak in. Place the bread halves on a baking tray and bake in the oven for 8-10min, or until the edges are golden brown with soft and supple centres.

5 Remove from the oven and sprinkle with flaky sea salt and parsley, if using.