THIS MONTH I’M LOVING… LEEKS

Leeks are a strong contender for my favourite vegetable. They’ve got everything going for them, but so often are confined to the role of side dish. While onions might be more of a kitchen staple, in my opinion leeks are the most versatile of the allium family. Their subtler, sweeter and less boisterous nature means they’re more suited to being at the forefront of a dish.

Leeks will complement all the classic allium counterparts, from potatoes and pork to cheese, nutmeg, peas and eggs. A staple of my childhood was my mum’s leek and potato soup. It was so wonderful in its simplicity and consisted only of sliced white potatoes, sliced leeks, vegetable stock and seasoning. The key is to slice the potatoes very thinly, so they soften before all of the flavour and colour comes out of the leeks. The whole thing was blended up and served with bread, butter and chunks of cheddar – dropped into the bowl to be discovered with glee. Another comforting incarnation of these three ingredients is a big jacket potato, crispy on the outside but fluffy in the middle, topped with outrageously buttery leeks and grated cheese.

It’s tempting to default to these classic combinations, but that would be a mistake. The French have a dish that puts leeks in the spotlight – leeks vinaigrette. Cook smaller ones whole (baby leeks are perfect for this), but with the ends trimmed, in a pan of salted boiling water until just soft, then plunge into ice-cold water to halt the cooking. Combine a little crushed garlic, 1tbsp white wine vinegar, 4tbsp olive oil, chopped parsley, wholegrain mustard and salt and pepper. Remove the leeks from the water and douse in the dressing. And if that’s not enough, they’re just as wonderful with flavours from further afield. Add to a chicken stir-fry with plenty of ginger, chilli and coriander, or stir some harissa paste through leeks braised in olive oil and serve with herby rice.

Last but by no means least, I implore you: do not throw away your leek tops! Yes, they may be less tender, but they shouldn’t be ignored. At the very least they add oodles of flavour to stocks and stews. Either tie them up with a bay leaf and some thyme or rosemary, or just throw them in unadorned. They’re also amazing deep fried. Slice as thinly as you can and fry briefly (keeping a careful watch as they’ll burn super-fast). Drain on kitchen paper before tossing with salt, sugar and five spice for an alternative to Chinese crispy ‘seaweed’. Follow Giovanna on Instagram @giovannaryan