JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES

They may seem impenetrable and knobbly, but given a chance, Jerusalem artichokes are also sweet, velvety and rich. Despite their name, they are related to neither Jerusalem nor globe artichokes: it’s thought Jerusalem comes from girasole (Italian for sunflower). Flavour wise, however, they do bear resemblance to the globe artichoke, with the same nutty, slightly sulphurous and earthy notes, combined with the creamy, comforting grounding of a really good potato.

There’s no getting around it – they are tricky to peel. Instead, simply roast in their skins, either whole or cut in half lengthways, with goose fat or olive oil and a generous coating of salt. I like to roast handfuls beneath a chicken stuffed with lots of lemon and garlic with plenty of whole, peeled shallots. The fat and juices from the bird and lemons will run to the bottom of the tray creating a divine sauce.

If you do have the patience to peel, you can make the most magnificent mash, purée or soup. They brown quickly, so keep in water with a little lemon juice once peeled. Simmer gently, in a mixture of milk and chicken or vegetable stock with a crushed garlic clove and a bay leaf, until soft. Drain completely, remove the bay leaf and garlic and mash with butter, or retain a little of the liquid and blend in a food processor with cream and butter for an out-of-this-world purée; or keep most of the liquid and blitz with an immersion blender for a silky soup.

Jerusalem artichokes pair well with other sweet and earthy flavours. Autumnal heroes such as nuts, mushrooms, truffle and pear make excellent toppings for the mashed and puréed options. For an extravagant supper, sit some golden, pan-fried scallops atop the purée and finish with crispy fried sage or black pudding. Meaty fish such as turbot would make a great partner for Jerusalem artichokes in any form – just make sure that plenty of butter is involved.

For Giovanna’s supper clubs and butchery company, see cookandfeast.co.uk