How It Works

History of jeans

The ‘riveting’ story of how two visionary immigrants created an American classic

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Denim jeans are a fashion essential around the world, but their origins are much more humble. During the late 1800s, America was in the full throes of the Gold Rush, and Jacob Davis, a Latvian immigrant, was working as a tailor in Nevada. Jacob sold clothing to local miners and workmen, who required strong and hard-wearing material for their work. It was here that Jacob struck gold.

By fixing small copper rivets to the most strained areas of the garment, such as the pockets, he created a much more durable design. This new, robust clothing caught public attention and Jacob’s ‘waist overalls’, as they were known, became so popular that he sought a patent to protect his idea. But a patent required money, so he asked his fabric supplier, Levi Strauss, for help.

Bavarian-born Strauss had also travelled to the States to seek his fortune and saw potential in Jacob’s product. The pair were granted a patent in 1873 and before long the modern denim jean was being worn in factories, farms and mines across the country. Indigo was chosen to dye the jeans because it was dark enough to hide stains, it didn’t penetrate the woven fabric and, crucially, it was cheap.

When the patent expired in 1908 dozens of imitations flooded the market and in the decades to come were worn by men and women of all classes. Teenagers began calling them ‘jeans’ instead of ‘overalls’ and manufactur­ers officially adopted the term in the 1960s. Today their popularity is as durable as the original riveted design.

 ??  ?? Main image: Lumberjack­s in Oregon, US, wearing Levi’s jeans in 1880 Inset: An advert from 1874 targets the working class
Main image: Lumberjack­s in Oregon, US, wearing Levi’s jeans in 1880 Inset: An advert from 1874 targets the working class
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 ??  ?? The metal rivets reinforce the stitching to make the garment last longer
The metal rivets reinforce the stitching to make the garment last longer

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