SPAETZLE WITH CHEESE AND BACON

500g plain flour ½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Pinch of Maldon salt 5 free-range eggs, lightly beaten 360-400ml full-cream milk First, make the Mornay sauce; gently heat the milk in a saucepan, and melt the butter in another. When the butter is bubbling, whisk in the flour and Cayenne, and cook for a few minutes to remove the raw taste of the flour. Whisk in the hot milk, bringing it together into a smooth, creamy sauce. Remove from the heat, and whisk in the grated cheese. Check for seasoning and keep warm. Now for the spaetzle; in a large bowl combine the flour, a good pinch of salt, the nutmeg and the pepper. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs and milk together. Pour this into the flour mixture gradually, whisking all the time. The batter should become thick and gloopy, with a consistency a bit like semolina pudding. Bring a large pan of well-salted water to the boil and lay out a clean tea-towel on a tray or flat surface as close to the hob as possible. You can make the spaetzle in a number of ways. Many favour passing it through a colander directly over the pan of water, but I was taught one method that never fails. Lightly flour a chopping board and pour the batter onto this in a long ‘sausage’ down the middle, about 12cm wide. Using a sharp, flat knife (the back of a bread knife works well) scrape a small amount of dough along the board and off the end into the boiling water. Repeat for the whole amount of dough. It’s helpful to have a spare set of hands here, but not necessary. As the spaetzle rise to the surface, remove them and transfer to the tea towel. It’s an easy technique, but one that takes some getting into the groove with, so don’t worry if your first scrapings are a bit weedy. It’s all in the eye and the wrist, and you’ll be flicking spaetzle at international level within no time. To serve, heat a large sauté pan, add the butter, and heat until gently bubbling. Sizzle the bacon until golden, and then tip in the drained spaetzle. Toss frequently, making sure the noodles become golden and crispy all over. Serve with lashings of cheese sauce, a little parsley for garnish and a good crisp salad to one side.