A berry good idea indeed T

wonderful home-grown red berries appearing on the shelves and in our markets.

On a clear day there’s nothing like indulging oneself with a punnet of strawberries or raspberries, still warm from the sun.

The flavour is unmistakeable, a million miles away from the cold, dull flavour of the air-freighted berries we are sold during the winter months.

I’m still amazed and saddened at the British desire for strawberries at Christmas time – dismal fruit, served six months too late, all in the name of choice. I despair sometimes, I do.

Taste a British strawberry, ripe as it can be, firm with juice and deep vermillion in colour, with that unmistakeable summery smell, and you should never want anything as second-rate ever again.

So, we must make use of these gorgeous native berries as much as possible while they last, and we have thousands of recipes to go at.

I’m a bit of a puritan when it comes to berries – cooking them always seems to lessen their flavour and dull the colours, so if I do much at all, I tend to make quick purées or sauces and leave it at that.

Everything else is pretty much fresh, from ice-creams to sorbets, cakes to tarts. Even my raspberry coulis is simply pressed through a plastic sieve rather than simmered in a pan. All of that essential freshness remains, though it won’t keep as long as a bubbled sauce. Nor should it!

Here, I wanted to herald the start of berry season with a recipe that was as light as a cloud, perfect warm-weather dessert work, something that really shows off the fruit at its best.

I thought of making a very light mousse with that wonderful tart French cheese, fromage frais.

Sharp like yoghurt, but beautifully creamy, it works well with almost any fruit, and here, lightened with a little meringue, almost floats off the plate.

To anchor it, we’re making a simple sponge, cutting discs from it and smoothing the mousse on top.

The recipe calls for ring moulds, but you could make this dessert in ramekins, or as a large slicing dessert in a loaf or cake tin. With it, I wanted a slightly different, herbal flavour.

Many herbs go well with berries, such as thyme, tarragon, mint and chervil. I chose dill, as it’s an unusual accompaniment, but works beautifully, adding a Scandinavian touch to the finished dish. Feel free to experiment and switch.

The basic syrup process works for all herbs. These mousses will drop a little in the fridge, so they are best made on the day of eating to ensure fully fluffy results.