TRAVEL I DON’T PASS ON PORTO

T’S tempting sometimes to think of Portugal as Spain’s poor relation – it has nothing like the landmass, infrastructure or history of its Iberian neighbour. But, in the modern era of ecotourism, all these ‘drawbacks’ probably add to Portugal’s appeal.

Much of the country has a rustic charm, as if it’s only now waking up to the possibilities of tourism and opportunities for growth.

If you can forgive the brashness of the Algarve on its southern coast, the rest of the country seems to meander through the seasons a little more politely. They’re happy for you to pop in but not inclined to erect the neon ‘welcome’ signs just yet.

Surfers have long known that the beaches of the north and central regions offer some of the finest waves in the world – but the wilder, greener interior, too, has its charms.

Its cuisine has long been regarded as one of the finest in the world and, for the full-on metropolitan experience, Lisbon can hold its own with any of the great cities of Europe.

But if you’re looking for charm, history, sparkle, cuisine, nightlife and some pretty good beaches, too, Porto just about has the lot.

We took in Portugal’s second city while touring the country by motorhome.

Basing ourselves just north of the city, at the village of Vila Cha, we were able to get into Porto via an economical Metro ride which took us into the centre for less than €4 return.

It’s tempting to take advantage of the Metro’s capacity for carrying your bikes on board the clean, spacious and popular trains but we found that Porto is a city best seen on foot. It’s big enough to warrant a two-day stopover but its essence is small enough to capture in just a day, if that’s all you have.

From the Trindade station – the main hub for travellers arriving from the north – the trains disgorge you out onto the Avenida dos Aliados, leading you south towards the Douro river, as much a part of Porto’s character as the Thames is of London’s.

But there’s no rush to get across it and explore the port wine cellars on the other side. The plethora of museums, markets, bars and restaurants – all bathed in the sunshine that seems perpetual in this corner of Iberia – means there’s plenty to see and do here before you immerse yourself in Porto’s synonymous product.

Don’t get too distracted by the high-end shops of the Rua de Mouzinho da Silveira and you’ll soon come across the old Mercado Ferreira Borges, a Beaux Arts-style market that’s been turned into a very hip arts centre, exhibition space and concert venue.

From here, you’ll begin to catch a glimpse of the river between the narrow streets and the high, colourful old houses, merchant