Tr avel report HAY-ON-WYE T
HE journey to ‘the town of books’ - Hay-on-Wye should have taken around three-and-a-half hours, but I made the mistake of relying on my phone’s map app for navigation.
I don’t know what went wrong, but more than five hours after setting off, and largely by process of trial and error, I somehow stumbled upon Hay-on-Wye shortly before midnight.
Thankfully - and this would be a feature of the stay - a warm welcome from the staff at The Swan hotel helped us get over the long journey.
Two staff members were talking excitedly about an auction due to take place at the hotel the following afternoon.
“You should see some of the items up for auction,” a receptionist in her twenties was telling an older gentleman. “There’s a full suit of Samurai armour in there.”
As she showed us to our lovely room she told us a former doctor in his nineties had died recently - he had spent a lifetime collecting Chinese/Japanese antiquities, along with other treasures, and they were all up being auctioned in The Swan’s meeting room the following day.
It was a great setting for an auction. The hotel has been given a complete makeover and this Grade II-listed Georgian building, a former coaching inn built in 1812, has stood the test of time.
The refurb has blended past and present tastefully, combining modern decor with old world charm.
The hotel boasts many of the best features of Georgian buildings, with high ceilings, chandeliers, oak panelling, a snug area and real fire.
Our bedroom was generously sized and beautifully decorated with floral linens and artwork.
In the morning we were shown to the spacious Garden Room restaurant. We were seated straight away and enjoyed a fabulous breakfast.
My partner is vegan and she often finds menu options limited. Not so at The Swan. She was not restricted in any way and had plenty of choice.
They had soya milk and lots of tasty vegetarian options on the cooked breakfast menu.
I had a full English breakfast and it was as good as anything I’ve ever had. After breakfast we decided to explore the town.
The Swan is nestled on a picturesque high street a short walk from all the bookshops, galleries, bars, restaurants and the beautiful River Wye.
We enjoyed a stroll next to the river, watching outdoor types enjoy a paddle on the river in a canoe or kayak.
The high street has avoided many of the ills of the modern high street dominated by the big chains. The town, nestled in the historic county of Brecknockshire in Wales, is just half a mile from the English border, and to match its unorthodox style, another quirky fact is that it is twinned with Timbuktu.
In the afternoon we made a quick return back to The Swan for the auction. We were soon in a packed auction room surrounded by antique dealers.
Don’t ask me why, but a Penny Black went up for auction and when it was sold for £80 I was surprised to see that it was my hand in the air signalling I was the highest bidder. I’ve not got the slightest interest in stamps.
Two hours later I was the proud owner of three more unusual items - two small framed Chinese antique watercolours and a terracotta sculpture of an oriental woman playing an ancient instrument. I had spent £320 in 120 minutes of auction madness.
After the auction we had a leisurely dinner. The food was superb. It tasted great and looked fantastic.
The food was all locally sourced. I had a wonderful soup starter with some delicious homemade breads followed by vegetables and beef and a fruit dessert. It was a five-star dining experience.
My partner Mala was also full of love for her dining experience.
She said: “Being a vegan it can be difficult to find anything at all and even more challenging to find something I love, but the food at The Swan was delicious and memorable.
“The food was carefully selected from local suppliers and beautifully prepared and served and creative, using an array of vegetables and seasoning.
“Innovative, precise cooking extracting great flavour combinations.
“What enamoured me the most was that they took their time rather than rushing. The seasonal mouthwatering fruit dessert exploded with flavour. This was the perfect end to a meal.”
We had started by getting lost on our way, but eventually had found a home from home in The Swan at Hay.