Beautiful Babka W
HEN I was a boy, the fear of the Soviet Union and its terrifying hoards of missiles was a constant presence. Days at school were spent discussing the relative speeds of jet fighters and poring over a single, dog-eared copy of ‘Protect & Survive.’
It was an eerie period in world history, and by the time I grew up and got to university, we all seemed to be getting on famously. Then, two Gulf Wars, the Balkan Crisis and the Arab Spring came along and we’re right back where we were, with insecurity and fear.
So, let’s brighten our lives with an altogether more appetising export from the Eastern Bloc than Novichok. The old jokes about Russian food extending as far as ‘first, peel your potato,’ whilst amusing, have little basis in fact. The cuisine of Russia and surrounding countries is rich, and varied.
Given the country’s vastness and the borders all around, the influences have been massive, from the Far East along through Persia towards the Levant, and upwards through Austro-Hungary and along the Baltic coast.
Russia is a country of hearty, fuss-free food that sustains and satisfies – big stews, roasts and bakes, fat, dark rye loaves. Salted and smoked fish and meats, big baskets of fruit and vegetables from the fertile plains, and lots and lots of wheat.
It’s said that Russia could feed half the world with its annual wheat production. A big claim, but they do drink a lot of vodka, let’s not forget. They also make amazing breads and cakes, especially within the Jewish communities, and it was a chance encounter with an old favourite TV show that kickstarted this week’s Russian recipe.
Most of you will be aware of the brilliant sitcom ‘Seinfeld,’ the mundane yet hilarious exploits of the titular character and his peculiar friends in New York City.
It’s modern Jewish humour at its best, with slick jokes about manners and relationships, but also, and for a New York upper-westsider, most importantly, the food. The Jewish food of New York is exceptional, and quite unique. Thousands of delicatessens, each famous for one or two specific items, ply their trade for the local communities as well as those in the know.
Hence, shopping is like it used to be over here – people are happy to tour the shops, picking up an item or two in each, making sure they get the best available version of the item they’re after.
One deli may do the best smoked salmon, and may do the best bagel, one may have the smoothest cream cheese.
It’s unlikely that many people will buy all three in one place, making putting together this classic lunchtime snack quite the undertaking.
Of the breads, perhaps the babka is king. Or Queen, technically, for babka is a diminutive word for Babushka, or Grandma.
It’s not clear whether this refers to the shape of the loaf, or its origins in the kitchens of the matriarchs of the old country.
Either way, the modern babka is a delight – a rich, sweet plaited loaf, brioche-like in texture, laced with layers of cinnamon or, as we’re doing today, chocolate.
It’s easy enough to make, and absolutely wonderful with a cup of coffee. It certainly helps calm the nerves after watching the news, at any rate.
A note; this is an overnight recipe, so do plan ahead.