Destination SRI LANKA

first meeting, he drove us to our hotel in Colombo to sleep off the jet lag – and from there around southern Sri Lanka.

Susantha and his friendly expertise took us from place to place so effortlessly, we could fully appreciate and learn about the country without having to think logistics. On the way, we’d stop off for a coconut from a road side stall, pick up a tangy pineapple – or take in another jaw-dropping view.

Through past experience, we’d grown to think of ourselves as independent travellers – but we soon fell into the mindset of guided relaxation. Susantha took us to restaurants he knew would be good, taught us about Sri Lankan history, culture, and, on visits to temples, his own Buddhist beliefs. All with a laid-back approachable style and sense of humour. Another thing this guy knows everyone. You pretty much can’t go anywhere without someone stopping to shake his hand.

Through his guidance, we learned of Sri Lanka’s history from a firsthand perspective; more recently the 30-year civil war which ended in 2009 and the 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake and Boxing Day tsunami which devastated so much of this beautiful island. We also saw for ourselves the poverty in which many Sri Lankans live. But through Susanta’s friendly enthusiasm was unveiled to us a beautiful country which has defied its troubled past through the strength, passion and optimism of its people.

In this way we travelled from Colombo, to the national parks of Udawalawe and Bundala - up into the hills of Ella and Nura Eliya - and then down to the amazing Kandy, a Such a buzz - riding in the back of a Safari jeep travelling along the main road to Udawalade.

Then, the first glimpse of an elephant- a giant bull ambling along by the road. Once in the park, there are yet more elephants to see, as well as sambar deer, wild buffaloes and countless monkeys.

But it’s getting up close to a cow elephant and her young that provides the most heart-stopping moment of the trip. Flapping her ears, she threatens to charge us, chasing the jeep until we give her the room she demands. A further 45 miles south is Bundala national park – a birdspotter’s paradise.

Home to a rich birdlife population, we spot among others the quirkily-named spotted thickknee, kingfishers and bee eaters. We miss out on seeing a greater flamingo, but home to 197 species, Bundala does not disappoint. We’re also lucky enough to see a changeable hawk eagle. Perched elegantly atop a tree, it glances at us before continuing its scan of the water for its next meal.

At a coastal point, we round a corner to see a rich tapestry of wildlife – pelicans, herons, and crocodiles. One croc yawns just yards from our jeep, while others can be seen sliding shiftily into the water. We stop in one spot for more than half an hour but it flies by. IT’S a long and winding journey up to Nurwara Eliya via the town of Ella.

Bear in mind travel is slow-going across Sri Lanka, but you also get to see stunning scenery. We pass through mines, forests and tea plantations before arriving at Ella, where we sit looking at the stunning Little Adams Peak as we sip tea.

It’s so relaxing; the sun shining, the air feeling like a fresh mint. The 3,400ft altitude also provides an escape from the many bugs – mosquitoes included - which populate the lower-lying regions.

Then it’s on to Nurwara Eliya, 6,500 ft above sea level.

Dubbed ‘Little England,’ the British presence is still strongly felt – Colonial-style architecture is round every corner. A tour of Pedro Tea Factory, where you are shown the original machines which are still in use, is well worthwhile.

We also visit The Hill Club club, which is like walking into a bygone era with its billiard room, separate bar for the men and uniformed staff. Interesting – but it’s good to escape downtown to enjoy a pint or two at a Sri Lankan bar.

If you pass by the bus station, check out the brightly-decorated liveries on show.

They know how to paint a bus in Sri Lanka. TRAVELLING in Sri Lanka is an awesome experience – especially if you’re not in a hurry.

And taking the train from Nurwara Eliya to Kandy is a highlight of the trip.

Passing through the mountains and tea plantations, glimpsing family life in the villages we pass, another unforgettable few hours. SET on a plateau surrounded by mountains, Kandy is the perfect city to get lost in – just watch out for the very inquisitive monkeys.

Susantha takes us to the Peradeniya Botanic Gardens, renowned for their collection of orchids, spices, and medicinal plants.

He also gives an incredible guided tour of the Temple of the Tooth, where it is said that the relic tooth of Buddha is enshrined.

Susantha tells us of the Legend of the tooth, which began in 313AD when it was smuggled into Sri Lanka straight from the Buddha as he lay on his funeral pyre.

Hidden in the hair of Princess Hemamali as she fled from Hindu armies who were besieging her father’s kindgom in India, it was placed on a gold lotus flower, and enshrined inside a nested jewelled casket fronted by two large elephant tusks.

On special occasions the relic was paraded around the streets of Kandy on the back of an elephant (these animals being sacred to Buddha).

A symbol of power, the tooth became the responsibility of the monarch and whoever held it was the rightful ruler of the country. This led to several attempts to capture or destroy it but all failed. These days,