A NORDIC BEAUTY E
VEN when you arrive in a downpour, the simple Nordic beauty of Bergen shines through as you weave along its roads. That says a lot about first impressions.
The peaceful gateway to fjord country is ever more accessible thanks to direct flights from the UK, making the city on the western coast of this long and winding nation an attractive alternative to the likes of Oslo and Kristiansand for those wanting to tick another Scandinavian gem off their list.
Perfect for a couple’s retreat – that reindeer in the room regarding the cost of day-to-day Norwegian living possibly precludes this as a family destination – but if your wallet can stand it, there’s plenty for outdoor-loving kids to enjoy.
One attraction you can’t fail to spot is the string of striking wooden Hanseatic buildings of Bryggen, picked out in paintbox colours and overlooking the busy harbour.
It’s a World Heritage Site quite rightly wrapped in cotton wool after so many similar buildings fell victim to fires which plagued the city from the 12th century right up to the 1950s. Irresistibly wonky, they’re ideal for a few hours of window shopping and snacking.
Pay a call to the Bryggen Tracteursted restaurant if you can. Not only will you feel like an extra in Diagon Alley, you can order a reindeer open sandwich to enjoy with some local cider.
Do pack for the possibility of being outside in all conditions, though – this is not a city where you stay indoors.
One of the biggest tourist pulls is the Fløibanen funicular railway up Mount Fløyen, one of the seven mountains of Bergen (there are actually nine but a local author wanted to compare his home city to the majesty of Rome and the whimsy took hold).
Taking passengers up 302 metres to the summit, queues can be 90 minutes long in busy periods so it’s worth getting there before 10am.
The views from the top are breathtaking enough but there’s plenty of reason to stay on the summit for the hiking, cycling and zipwiring which can all be booked from the Fløyen Aktiv centre. There’s also an impressive adventure playground for the kids which is likely to absorb a few hours of fun time.
With Bergen being the gateway to the fjords, it would be rude to not step through and see what lies beyond.
There are many tourist cruises vying for your kroner.
We took the three-hour round trip out to Mostraumen and, although it’s pricey at 600kr per adult (around £55), these are views you would struggle to see elsewhere on the planet.
Passing islands brimming with Christmas trees and banks dotted with those distinctive wooden houses, it brings to mind a personal trip through a model railway layout, topped off with a taste of the mountain water which flows down through the rocks in nature’s own filtration system.
Taking in the air around open water is guaranteed to whet your appetite and Bergen is a destination made for seafood lovers.
A city founded on its dried cod industry, you’ll find a wider fish menu in the restaurants here than in other European cities with beef the seeming default choice for anyone who can’t handle cod or halibut.
Enhjørningen in Bryggen – also known as The Unicorn – is considered the most exclusive place to dine in the city where you can have a carpaccio of whale starter (155kr) followed by baked catfish (350kr) and ice cream made with the city’s delicacy of brown cheese (155kr).
With drinks included, expect to pay the equivalent of £80 per adult for a decent meal out in town although you can take advantage of Bergen’s two branches of McDonalds.
The cultural offering is just as mixed. If the Museum of Leprosy can’t tempt you, the art galleries all fall under the umbrella title KODE, while the best place to experience live music is the 1,500 seater Grieghallen, named after the composer who is Bergen’s most famous son.
If you’re worried about the collective cost creeping up, consider a Bergen card (410kr per adult for 72 hours) which provides free access to certain museums and discounted admission to others.
Every krone really does count when visiting this part of the world and if you want to enjoy a night out where you can afford more than one pint (it’s around £9.30 when you convert the currency) then anything that can save you cash elsewhere is recommended.
It all comes with the remarkable backdrop of Norway’s natural scenery, the one thing that’s likely to form your memories of Bergen for years to come – and which won’t cost you a penny.