TRAVEL THE FUTURE’S BRIGHT, THE FUTURE’S ORANGE
Handel and a 10-year-old Mozart, this lavishly gilded beast is a sight to behold.
Hidden away among the cobbled streets are the town’s 21 ‘secret gardens’, which are little courtyards enclosed by charming old almshouses. Most of these Hofjes are free to visit.
Art lovers should head for the Frans Hals Museum to view the world’s largest collection of works by the Dutch master and other stunning exhibits from Holland’s Golden Age. The building itself is a masterpiece and far less busy than Amsterdam’s art museums.
Popular with families is Teylers Museum, founded in 1784 and the country’s oldest. Inquisitive youngsters love its eclectic collection of art, fossils and intriguing scientific instruments.
A surprising bonus for visitors who like to shop is Haarlem’s wealth of classy boutiques and designer stores. They’re reputed to be the best in Holland.
After a full day of walking, culture and shopping some serious refreshment is required. The place to go for a refreshing beer? Why, church of course!
Jopenkerk underwent a dramatic change of use and has installed gleaming copper hop boilers below its stained-glass windows to become a thriving restaurant and brewery. It boasts of ‘crafting divine beers’, a claim I can vouch for after sipping a Heavy Cross brew weighing in at a challenging 10%.
While Haarlem is an enjoyable excursion option, Amsterdam remains one of Europe’s most popular city-break destinations. Canal cruises through centuries of Dutch history and the world-class museums and galleries, the cosy brown bars and pavement cafés entice people back year after year.
Personal favourites which never fail to delight include the magnificent Rijksmuseum, whose 8,000 treasures include many works by Rembrandt and Vermeer ; and the Van Gogh Museum, which on July 27 opens a new exhibition based on the artist’s time spent in the South of France.
Take your sunglasses if you’re visiting Amsterdam on King’s Day, by the way. For suddenly your world turns bright orange. This celebration of King Willem’s birthday on April 27 sees the Dutch at their jolliest, clad in all things orange, proudly flying orange flags and filling those fabulous historic streets and canals with festive fun.
This is no time for formal sightseeing. The museums are closed and the excursion guides take the day off.
Visitors can join the party watching from canalside bars with a drink in hand as a never-ending procession of boats chug by laden with revellers.
If you enjoy crowds and a good party, King’s Day is a great time to visit. You can recover next day with a gentle tiptoe through the tulips in full bloom at the Keukenhof Spring Gardens.
Alternatively, use the excellent public transport network – or hire a bike – to explore Haarlem or other neighbouring attractions.
visited Amsterdam with easyJet, who serve the city from 10 UK airports in the summer, with return flights from around £50 via easyJet.com. easyJet Holidays offer inclusive city breaks. Typical deals are £225 per person for flights with three nights room-only in July at the four-star Hotel Arena at Oosterpark. See easyjet.com/ holidays.
For details on attractions and accommodation see iamsterdam.com or visit the I amsterdam information centres at Schiphol airport or the city’s Central station. For Haarlem information see haarlemmarketing.co.uk or visit the tourist information centre at the city’s Stadhuis (City Hall).
Save money on sightseeing and transport with an I Amsterdam City Card. Benefits include free entry to more than 50 museums and attractions (including in Haarlem), a free canal cruise, unlimited use of public transport, and discounts on other attractions, food and drink. A 24-hour card costs €59 and others are available for 48, 72 and 96 hours.