THE ICE VAN COMETH
IT’S hard to imagine a vehicle weighing more than two tonnes could be tossed like an autumn leaf in a gust of wind.
But as I lie awake in my camper van, rocking back and forth, I’m considering all eventualities.
More of a washing machine spin cycle than a relaxing lullaby cradle, the movement has been keeping me awake for some time.
Extreme weather patterns are to be expected in Iceland as the Nordic country edges towards its winter season, sending most travellers scurrying towards log-fired lounges or spa-quality hot springs.
But hardier types prepared to brave the outdoors can take advantage of crowd-free campsites and prices that are a fraction of hotelbased holidays.
Camper van road trips have been popular with summer visitors for years, focussing mainly on Iceland’s Route 1 Ring Road – a neat, scenic loop covering some of the country’s most impressive waterfalls, volcanoes and hot springs, easily completed without the need for a 4x4.
But recently, low season road trips have been increasing in popularity. Many campsites remain open throughout the year, main roads are largely accessible, and spiked winter tyres make it safe to drive through snow.
My main concern had been the cold, but my Happy 1 Auto van from Happy Campers is as snug as any boutique hotel room, with a heater powered by the car battery and a full duvet and pillow set supplied.
The family-run, eco-friendly company, who plant a tree for every booking, have seen a steady rise in the number of people taking advantage of quieter shoulder season and winter periods.
Although it’s the smallest model they rent – and perhaps, at times, a little on the cramped side – our twoperson van is equipped with everything we need: a small kitchen with running water supplied by a tank, refillable at petrol stations; a gas stove; and a bed that folds up into a seat during the day.
By law, every camper must book into an official campsite every night; expect to pay between £8 and £12 per person, generally including use of washrooms, showers and cooking facilities. During the low season, there’s no need to book in advance, adding to the sense of spontaneity that’s at the core of a truly enjoyable road trip.
My partner and I have a plan to literally go where the wind takes us, using Iceland’s official meteorological service, vedur.is, to direct our travels. A handy list of winter campsites available on the Happy Campers website (happycampers. is) helps us map out where we can stay.
Fagradalsfjall volcano
The landscape along the southern section of Iceland’s Ring Road