A tale of two cities
Buda on one side of the Danube, Pest on the other, ANITA MERRITT explores both, sampling hot springs and history in Hungary’s capital
WHETHER you love sampling local food, strolling through unfamiliar streets or hitting the hotspots, a city break is a great way to get back to exploring the world again.
Budapest is one of Europe’s best-loved capitals for its rich history, natural hot spring baths and architectural masterpieces.
Keen to hit the ground running, I jumped in a taxi at the airport and asked the driver for a quick tour of the main attractions.
As we whizzed through the streets and boulevards I was transfixed as the shape of the city unfolded.
Bisected by the River Danube, Budapest’s famous Chain Bridge is the route between Buda in the west, built on hillsides with sweeping panoramas across the city, and flat Pest in the east. The extremes of the two are strikingly etched in both the look and feel of the contrasting areas.
Pest is lively with imposing architecture, intriguing shops, bars and restaurants, whereas within the terraces of Buda you will find a sedate air of history and a much calmer pace of life. Interestingly, it is Buda that is perceived by the locals I met as being the ‘better side of the river’ to live on, but when it comes to exploring as a tourist, there is no shortage of enriching experiences on both sides.
Pest is where you’ll
The Great
Lake Balaton find some of the finest hotels and my base for the trip was the waterside Budapest Marriott Hotel.
The views of the sparkling Danube practically filled my room, thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows. You’ll get the same gorgeous scenery from the hotel’s Liz and Chain Sky Lounge with open-air roof terrace and from the DNB Budapest restaurant, which serves traditional Hungarian food with a modern twist.
The one choice you will find on most menus in Hungary is goulash, a soup or stew of meat and vegetables flavoured with spices and paprika. In fact, you’ll find paprika added to most dishes here – the country loves it.
Meat is also fundamental to Hungarian food, but you will still find vegetarian options or fishbased dishes such as catfish.
On my travels around the city, the word pálinka soon became part of my vocabulary. The potent liquor is known as Central Europe’s traditional fruit brandy and is the most popular drink in Hungary. When it comes to wine, the country is renowned for special varieties such as Furmint and Juhfark.
What Budapest is perhaps most famous for is its eight iconic bridges, architecture and thermal waters.
It still has authentic medieval Turkish baths in operation, with almost 1,500 hot springs supplying dozens of spas around the country.
Among Budapest’s treasured landmarks are its Parliament Building, the largest synagogue in Europe, and the Hungarian State Opera House.
Its many examples of modernday architecture include the award-winning House of Music, its roof has been designed to look like it has trees growing through it.
Pest is known for its nightlife and cheaper drink prices. A crowdpleasing night out can be found at BrewDog at Anker Köz 1-3. Inside you’ll find 25 taps of craft beer including local and world beers as well as its own brand.
Food lovers must visit the Great Market Hall, on Vámház krt – the largest and oldest indoor market in the city, and an exciting place to see Hungary’s fabulous food showcased in front of you.
In Buda, within the walls of the imposing Buda Castle, I came across The House of Houdini. The museum houses the only collection of original Houdini artefacts in Europe. On view are handcuffs the magician, who was born in Budapest, escaped from and for a bit of extra fun, live magic shows form part of the small tour.
As captivating and intriguing as