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CHLOE’S CHOICE: Exposed brickwork Impressed by Chloe’s fresh take on bare bricks? Here's the lowdown on building brickwork into your space
There’s nothing quite like original exposed brickwork to celebrate a home’s history. And the good news is, for many lucky homeowners, achieving a brick feature wall costs nothing more than a bit of hard graft…
Q Which wall should I choose?
Exposed brick is a pretty bold statement and will be the room’s focus, so it pays to stick to one wall or a section of wall with natural start and finish points, such as a chimney breast or inside alcoves. A wall without doors, windows or radiators will be the easiest to strip.
Q How do I do the work myself?
Drill a test hole in the plaster to check the brickwork. If it’s damaged or the colour isn’t your bag, accept defeat and refill the hole. If you go ahead, cover every surface and seal doors. Work from left to right, hammering and gently lifting the plaster off with a trowel or putty knife. Remove any loose cement or brickwork with a stiff fibre brush, then vacuum the wall. ‘If cavities are left exposed, repoint them to avoid draughts or creepycrawlies,’ says Georgina Burnett of thehomegenie.com.
Q Will they need to be sealed? Sealing will alter the colour and look of the brickwork and, once done, it can’t be reversed. However, in moisture-prone kitchens and bathrooms, a coat of PVA or terracotta sealant is recommended. On floors, try Lithofin’s MN Stainstop (£22, Amazon).
Q What if I don't want the red-brick colour? Once cleaned and prepped, apply a primer and undercoat that's suitable for masonry, using a roller with a medium to long pile. Once thoroughly dry, paint with a water-based acrylic paint intended for interior use. As brick is porous, you'll need at least two coats.
Q Can I fake it?
You can – and brick slips could be the answer. These veneer bricks faithfully mimic a solid brick wall but are much thinner and will take up less space. Large areas may need to be installed using a panel system, but smaller sections can be glued onto a solid wall, just like regular tiles. Once pointed, they’re incredibly realistic.
“Be careful not to lose texture by overzealous cleaning or repair, and avoid wire brushes or other abrasives ” ROGER Hunt, co-author, NEW design for old buildings (riba publishing)