Kentish Gazette Canterbury & District
The Kent gastropubs enjoying taste of success on national stage
Four Kent gastropubs have made it into a list of Britain’s best - and three of them are in the top 10.
The Sportsman at Seasalter ranks fourth, The Kentish Hare at Tunbridge Wells fifth, The Fordwich Arms near Canterbury at 9th, and The Dog at Wingham 29th in the Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs list for 2023.
The Michelin-starred Sportsman, which describes itself as a “grotty run-down pub by the sea”, is no stranger to awards such as this. The Shepherd Neame hostelry, run by brothers Stephen and Philip Harris, is a past winner.
It is also a favourite haunt of celebrities, some arriving by helicopter and landing in the neighbouring farmer’s field. The list was put together by industry experts, including food critics and writers, gastropub chefs and other food influencers.
The Sportsman, which has held a Michelin star since 2008, topped the list in 2015, 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2021. Last year it came sixth.
Judges praised head chef Stephen Harris’ menu for being sourced almost exclusively from the land surrounding the pub, with seaweed picked from the beach, salt from the sea and meat from ‘bountiful’ local farms.
They said his slip sole grilled in seaweed butter was a “musttry for any visitor”. Despite his dislike for “signature dishes”, judges said this would be his, adding: “It’s the purest expression of what makes The Sportsman fantastic: simplicity, thoughtfulness and, most importantly, it is delicious.” They said: “The Sportsman is remarkably affordable for an eatery of its standing and now offers one menu - a fivecourse tasting menu, celebrating small, seasonal dishes that showcase the local environment.”
But they added: “Be warned, it remains a tough pub to get a seat because the popularity of its cooking stretches the world over, so plan before visiting.” Stephen, a former history teacher and punk musician, said: “It is a really strong list. There are so many great places on it so we are really pleased to go back up to fourth place. It is down to the hard work of the people here. We do it because we love it and we love the place. “I feel we have got better this year. If you have high standards you try not to let them drop. We have been at this pub for 23 years and have built up a regular trade. Yes, we are booked up several months in advance, but it means you can plan. I am very aware that it is a tricky time for a lot of businesses and we are just thankful that we are in a good position.” Brothers Chris and James Tanner prove the saying two minds are better than one with the success of the Kentish Hare in Tunbridge Wells. It is their first pub in the county although they have spent more than 20 years in the sector with restaurants in Devon. The Kentish Hare was launched in 2014 and has been a labour of love. James said: “The site was to be knocked down and flats built on it. We are in a lovely semi-rural village near London and two big towns. We saw a market for commuters and for locals. “The site is beautiful now but it needed some serious TLC. And I mean serious. We thought can we do it? Shall we do it? And we did and I’m so pleased that we did.” Britain’s smallest town of Fordwich is home to The Fordwich Arms, run by Natasha Smith and her husband Daniel. It offers a full tasting menu at £220 a head for six courses and petit fours, including duck liver parfait; raw Orkney scallop; and turbot with crisp potato, grape and lobster sauce. Robert Mantegna is head chef at The Dog at Wingham, where he creates unique dishes with local seasonal ingredients. For mains, dishes have included pressed polenta with parsley sauced, baby carrots, pickled shallots and feta cheese; wild mushroom risotto with summer black truffle, parmesan and crème fraiche; and pan-fried cod with buttered beans, watercress, lemon verbena and basil beurre blanc. The pub won the Front of House Team of the Year title in the 2021 Damm Top 50 Gastropubs awards. Elsewhere in the top 100, The Bridge Arms in Canterbury was ranked 61st and The Rose Inn at Wickhambreaux was 68th.
The south dominated this year’s list, although the top spot was taken by The Parkers Arms in Clitheroe.
We have got better this year. If you have high standards you try not to let them drop. We have been at this pub for 23 years and have built up a regular trade...