WILL SHE GO?
WE’VE CHECKED everything in the ignition system, replacing parts where necessary, and we are finally ready to press the starter button. But first, to be kind to the engine internally, it is advisable to spin it over for a few seconds to build up oil pressure so that the moving parts are aided by an initial layer of oil. You can do this a number of ways, but we did it by leaving the rotor arm off and cranking the engine over well on the starter motor.
Before doing that though, we make sure the car is in neutral, and that the transmission isn’t stuck in gear. If in doubt of that, check it by rotating the engine on the starting handle with the ignition disconnected. A seized clutch will be confirmed when you can’t spin it with the clutch pedal down.
We had previously also checked the oil was of suitable quality to be able to get around the engine. If in doubt, change it, and the oil filter. With a free transmission, and having spun the engine over for a minute or so, we are then ready to refit the rotor arm, put the fuel pump supply pipe into a small bottle of petrol, turn on the ignition and press the starter button.
And the engine fired after only a second or so of cranking. Then it stopped a second later as I pushed the throttle. Whatever we tried, the car would only run for a matter of seconds as we tried to rev it. We checked and re-checked everything, ensuring we had the correct set up on the points gap, the correct order on the distributor baseplate post, and the correct order for the plug leads. James then came to the conclusion it was a bad condenser, as they are renowned for failing, causing rough or poor running. So that was changed too. With everything theoretically now sorted, James had one last trick...