Aux­il­iary Drive Belt Re­place­ment

Land Rover Monthly - - Contents - DAVE BARKER

Re­plac­ing the ten­sioner and drive belt is a quick and easy job – here’s how we did it

This 2005 2.7-litre TDV6 Dis­cov­ery 3 was in the work­shop for other work, but when run­ning the en­gine the me­chanic heard a squeal­ing noise from the ac­ces­sory drive belt, pos­si­bly from one of the drive belt ten­sioner pul­leys. An in­spec­tion re­vealed that the ac­ces­sory drive belt ten­sioner pul­ley (also known as an au­to­matic dou­ble ten­sioner) was start­ing to fail. The ten­sioner part of the assem­bly was seized and be­gin­ning to crack open, and would fail in a short time, so the ten­sioner pul­ley would need to be re­placed. It’s also worth re­plac­ing the ac­ces­sory drive belt at the same time, es­pe­cially con­sid­er­ing it may have been dam­aged by the de­fec­tive ten­sioner.

Re­plac­ing the ten­sioner and aux­il­iary drive belt is a sim­ple and easy job. The hard­est part is of­ten re­mov­ing the cool­ing fan. This needs a spe­cial thin 36 mm span­ner (left hand thread), plus ei­ther the Land Rover spe­cial tool or a sim­i­lar home­made tool to hold the fan pul­ley.

1Undo the air pipe from the ra­di­a­tor cowl, then the hose clamps se­cur­ing the air pipe from the air cleaner hous­ing, and re­move the pipe.

2Un­clip the header tank pipe from the top of the cowl, then pull the cowl back­wards to free it from the ra­di­a­tor and re­move it.

3Un­clip the wiring multi-plug and dis­con­nect the wiring har­ness run­ning from the cool­ing fan assem­bly to the multi-plug socket on the fan hous­ing.

4Us­ing a suit­able tool to pre­vent the fan pul­ley from ro­tat­ing, use a thin 36 mm span­ner to loosen the cool­ing fan from the pul­ley (left hand thread).

5You can then un­screw the fan from the fan pul­ley by hand, be­fore re­mov­ing the fan assem­bly from the en­gine bay.

6Once you have re­moved the coolant fan assem­bly from the ve­hi­cle you can now have ac­cess to in­spect the ten­sioner and the ac­ces­sory drive belt.

7Be­fore re­mov­ing the old belt, make a di­a­gram or take a photo of the belt’s route around the pul­leys, as its easy to for­get when fit­ting the new belt.

8Us­ing a 3/8 inch square socket drive, ro­tate the ten­sioner pul­ley anti-clock­wise to re­lease the ten­sion, al­low­ing you to re­move the ac­ces­sory drive belt from all the pul­leys.

9Once the belt has been re­moved, un­bolt the se­cur­ing bolt that is hold­ing the drive belt ten­sioner to the en­gine, and re­move the ten­sioner.

10Here is our old ten­sioner pul­ley. The unit au­to­mat­i­cally keeps the ac­ces­sory drive belt un­der the cor­rect ten­sion.

11The orig­i­nal au­to­matic drive belt ten­sioner was seized and start­ing to break open, as can be seen in the pic­ture, and would ob­vi­ously soon fail.

12Fit the new belt ten­sioner into po­si­tion onto the en­gine. When it is cor­rectly in­stalled, fit the se­cur­ing bolt and tighten to 45 Nm.

13Us­ing the 3/8 inch square drive bar, ro­tate the ten­sioner anti-clock­wise. Hold­ing the ten­sion off will al­low you to fit the new ac­ces­sory drive belt.

14With the new belt in po­si­tion re­lease the ten­sioner, this will now ten­sion the new belt. Dou­ble check you have fit­ted the belt cor­rectly.

15The coolant fan is screwed back on to the fan pul­ley, the ra­di­a­tor cowl clipped in and the header tank pipe at­tached, and the multi-plug re­con­nected.

16Fi­nally, re­fit the air pipe onto the ra­di­a­tor cowl and tighten the hose clips se­cur­ing it to the air cleaner hous­ing and turbo pipe. Job com­pleted.

Elim­i­nate noise and keep all sys­tems run­ning with a rou­tine aux­il­iary drive belt re­place­ment

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