Land Rover Monthly - - [LRM Technical] -

The whole ve­hi­cle has been masked 1 up and the primer/filler coats are ap­plied, here fin­ish­ing off around the fuel filler on the rear wing. 2 The top of the rear tub has been coloured be­fore riv­et­ing the pre-painted cap­pings on. This en­sures the whole job is fully colour coated. Be­fore paint­ing, the whole of the 3 rear body tub and bulk­head are cleaned with panel wipe, then wiped over with the tack cloth. The new riv­ets hold­ing the cap­pings 4 to the rear tub also need to be primed by spot­ting with an aerosol can of primer/filler paint. Nick be­gins ap­ply­ing the first grip 5 coat of colour onto the front bulk­head – as be­fore, he’s tack­ling the de­tails prior to the main pan­els. With the bulk­head com­pleted, the de­tails around the rear body tub are blown in, be­gin­ning with the wheel arch flanges. The move­ment of the spray gun is 7 con­tin­u­ous as Nick works sys­tem­at­i­cally around the body pan­els, fin­ish­ing off with the right rear wing. Af­ter three colour coats and 8 overnight set­ting, we have a shin­ing Shire Blue Land Rover un­der there. Just need to re­move the mask­ing now. 9 The mask­ing tape and sheets are re­moved care­fully to en­sure that no paint edges are ac­ci­dently lifted when peel­ing the tape away. The fin­ish is ex­cel­lent, in my 10 opin­ion, but Nick points out the odd par­ti­cle in the paint sur­face. And is it a tad too shiny for an old Ninety?

The process con­tin­ues with the 11 usual flat­ting, this time us­ing 2500 grade wet and dry pa­per, the ‘nib­bing’ process that we men­tioned ear­lier. 12 The small buf­fer is then used with cut­ting com­pound to re­move marks left by the wet and dry pa­per, be­fore pol­ish­ing with a soft cloth. 13 A great re­sult – the right level of shine, with orig­i­nal rivet de­pres­sions still vis­i­ble. Just the roof to paint, and we can start re­build­ing the ve­hi­cle.

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