Replacing The EGR Valve

A defective EGR is easily diagnosed and is simple to replace. It’s the digging down to reach it that takes the time, as Dave Barker explains

Dave Barker explains how to diagnose and replace a defective EGR valve on a Freelander 2

Tools: General workshop tools, diagnostic equipment, safe access to the underside of the engine

This 2013 2.2-litre Freelander 2 Td4 had a Restricted Performance warning on, and went into Restricted Performance mode (aka Limp Home mode), which meant the engine would not rev higher than 2600 rpm. This was soon followed by the amber engine warning light showing on the instrument display. It all suggested a problem with fuel or emissions, but it wasn’t a critical warning that required the vehicle to be stopped.

The Freelander was brought into the workshop, plugged into the diagnostic testing equipment and the fault was quickly detected. The problem that showed up was with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit and the simple reason was shown as “Actuator is Stuck”. In other words, the EGR valve had failed and was stuck, though it didn’t indicate if it was stuck open or closed. Whichever, the EGR valve needed to be replaced.

Replacing the EGR valve on the Freelander 2 is not a straightforward job, despite it being secured to the engine by just three bolts. The first problem is gaining access to it. To even see it, and its securing bolts, you need a mirror, as it’s located at the back of the engine attached to an exhaust gas cooler. This cooler and the EGR valve need to be removed as one, and then the cooler is fitted to the replacement EGR valve with new gaskets. Several pipes and wiring harnesses need to be removed to allow the EGR to be extracted. It’s best to remove the EGR with its securing cradle, giving more space to lift the EGR assembly out. The job is best done following Land Rover’s own instructions, which indicate exactly where the various pipes and wiring looms are attached, and show which need to be released from where.