DISMANTLING THE OLD DOORS
1 All of the components in the old doors were working well when the Ninety was taken off the road for rebuild, so we intend to re-use them.
2 We start with the internal lock button assembly, removing two top screws holding it to the shell, then releasing the operating rod from the door latch.
3 Inner panel, which holds the internal handle and window mechanism, is released by removing five bolts, plus this nut and bolt at the forward edge.
4 The internal handle’s rod is unclipped from the latch. With the window down, the lift mech is detached from the glass, and the inner panel lifted off.
5 While the glass is fully down, the window frame’s lower inner seal strip and the lower outer rubber seal are prised out of the shell.
6 The glass can now be removed from the door, turning it at about 40 degrees to disengage the forward-sloping edge from the channels.
7 Before unclipping the control rods from the door latch, make a sketch or take a photo showing their exact positions. Store the clips and rods safely.
8 The tumblers of the lock barrels were corroded and seized – any key could have opened them. An occasional spray of WD40 in the keyhole prevents this.
9 With those parts disconnected, we now remove the external door handle. This screw was seized solid – so we’ll need a new handle.
10 The door latch is easily removed now by releasing the three screws on the door shut face. This latch has a waterproof membrane attached.
11 The window frame fillers and channels are held by screws. There are two sides, an upper, and two corner fillers. Old channels are best renewed.
12 The lower sections of the window channels (in the door shell) are almost certain to have deteriorated, which is why it’s best to renew them.
13 With the doors now fully dismantled, we see the extent of the internal corrosion of the steel frame. This is the bottom front corner.
14 The most severe internal corrosion is at the top of the door shell where the steel structural section has mostly turned to rust powder.