Defender TDCI Service Guide
There is no mystery, nor special tools involved in a major service on a late-model Defender. All you need is a methodical approach, as Trevor Cuthbert explains
A methodical approach is all that’s required for a major service on a late-model Defender
It is probably no surprise that a large proportion of the work involved in a major service (B service) of a Land Rover Defender takes place beneath the vehicle. All of the procedures carried out here could be completed with the Land Rover on the ground using a jack and axle stands, although it is clearly a lot easier with the Land Rover raised on a vehicle ramp (lift).
This Defender was taken for a good test drive prior to the service, to get a feel for how the truck was performing, to detect any problems or issues, and to get all of the oils and fluids up to operating temperature. To start the work, I like to drain all of the oils that are to be changed, in order to give them a chance to drip off completely while other parts of the service are under way. Note that the main six-speed gearbox oil was not changed at this service, as the Land Rover has covered less than 90,000 miles and the gearbox oil is not due to be changed until 120,000 miles, as per the service schedule.
This feature provides a guide to servicing, to be used in conjunction with the manufacturer’s stipulated requirements and specifications. Servicing should be carried out according to Land Rover’s recommended practices and service check lists, and adhering to the procedures in the service schedule. Reference should be made to the more frequent schedules which apply to vehicles working in more demanding climates and environmental conditions, and those that are heavily worked.
In this section we deal with the fuel filter, and there are differences between the fuel systems on the 2.4-litre and the later 2.2-litre models. When the 2.4 fuel filter is changed, air (mostly introduced via the new empty filter) can enter the fuel system and (according to the book) has to be bled out using a hand squeeze pump connected into the fuel line in the engine bay. However, this can be avoided by slowly filling the new filter right to the top with fresh fuel. The filter is then fitted carefully to avoid spilling any fuel, which would allow air in. A little air will probably enter the lines, though not enough to prevent the engine re-starting. On start-up, the engine may sound slightly rough for a few seconds as residual air passes through, before settling to normal running. The prescribed bleed technique for the later 2.2-litre models is simpler, using a bleed valve which is situated along the fuel line in the engine bay.