Happy Highland campers
Former military man Craig Allen reveals his top tips for wild camping in Scotland
THE current pandemic has highlighted issues around the use of our wild spaces especially in remote areas such as the Scottish Highlands. Here campsites and bothies have been closed for months but cases of people flouting the lockdown rules and wild camping have regularly hit the headlines. In most cases, this isn’t wild camping at all, just opportunistic partying by thoughtless individuals who leave piles of litter and discarded camping gear behind. Naturally, this upsets both the locals and the authorities and has already resulted in camping restrictions in the Loch Lomond National Park.
Although appearing wild to those visiting from the towns and cities, the Highlands is actually a managed landscape. Scotland is not Alaska or the Canadian Northwest and although it is relatively remote by UK standards, all the land is owned by someone. As the current emergency measures start to ease, people are returning to the mountains and glens and they will be made to feel welcome. Tourism, after all, provides a much-needed boost to the local economy. As a regular visitor to these iconic landscapes here are my own thoughts on how we can enjoy them in these unusual times while acting responsibly.
The first thing to say is not to take Scotland’s famed freedom to roam and wild camp for granted. The legislation actually specifically applies to small groups on foot or cycle and makes no mention of camping in motor vehicles or 4x4s. Despite this, the practice is generally tolerated although the sheer numbers of vehicles now appearing at certain hotspots are causing concern. The road behind the famous silver sands at Arasiag is a prime example. The area has recently suffered the depredations of careless campers leaving rubbish and upsetting locals while Glen Etive has experienced similar issues.
It certainly pays to do a little research and there are still plenty of places where you can enjoy stunning landscapes while avoiding the crowds. The rest is pretty simple, don’t leave rubbish or
light fires if it’s restricted and don’t block access or let your dogs worry livestock. It may look wild but as already stated the land is all owned by someone be it Forestry Commission, shooting estates or crofters, so if asked, be polite and move on. We Land Rover enthusiasts have an advantage here as our vehicles tend to blend into the landscape and generally cause less offence than huge white motorhomes. My tip is to arrive late, leave early and avoid spots close to villages, unless specified for overnight use. Those tips could save you lots of unnecessary hassles. While it’s great to find some isolated spot to pitch up and enjoy the view, it’s also nice to have some basic facilities and there are wonderful campsites to be found dotted around the Highlands. A few personal favourites include the Red Squirrel in Glencoe, Glen Brittle Campsite on Skye and Horgabost on Harris. There are many others to choose from with varying levels of amenities and often in stunning locations. The one caveat to camping is perhaps the infamous Highland midge, although I have been little troubled by them over the years and take simple precautions such as head nets and repellents. For more comfort, you can always stay at a hotel or inn although here the experience is more mixed ranging from the outstanding to frankly dire throwbacks to the 1970s. I have experienced both though thankfully there are plenty of places in between where you can enjoy real Highland hospitality. There are iconic inns such as the Clachaig in Glencoe for example or wonderful hostelries like the Kylescue Hotel in the wilds of Assynt. One of the advantages of stopping at such places is the food with Scotland boasting world-class game and seafood. In fact, you could easily base a whole trip around sampling some of the wonderful fare on offer. There is also the whisky, of course, many distilleries offer tours and you could plan a trip around visiting a few. Whatever your tastes, eating out and purchasing your food and drink locally, all helps support the economy. Then there are bothies, a Scottish institution. They provide basic shelter from the elements and a welcoming fireside. Originally built to house shepherds and ghillies, they were popularised by mountaineering clubs in the 1930s many of these huts are now run by that wonderful organization the MBA (Mountain Bothies Association). Begun by Yorkshireman Bernard Heath and a few cycling friends back in the 1960s it is now responsible for over 80 properties throughout Scotland. While the majority of these are in remote landscapes requiring a walk-in while carrying your provisions, they are well worth the effort. I have enjoyed many memorable nights in bothies which attract a wide range of outdoor folk. Some recent reports of wild parties resulting in damage to bothies are disturbing though thankfully it’s a tiny minority who cause issues. Whatever your favoured pastime you will find ample opportunity in the glens, mountains and lochs and a Land Rover is the ideal vehicle for getting off the beaten track. Talking of tracks, it is worth noting that there are no greenlanes as in England, most off-road trails will be forestry or estate tracks with limited access. There are however many miles of single track and minor roads often leading to stunning locations. The Bealach na ba’ or ‘Pass of the Cattle’ springs to mind and I have recently been exploring the old military roads laid down in the wake of the Jacobite Risings. Significant sections of these original routes survive, often under tarmac and passing through wonderful mountain country. Of the numerous inns or Kings Houses built to service these roads, many remain in use while others such as the former Kingshouse at Amulree are being refurbished. One of the most famous, the Kingshouse Hotel in Glencoe has recently been rebuilt at considerable expense, sadly losing much of its original character in the process.
While there are plenty of wonderful roads through the Highlands the heavily indented coastline and numerous islands mean that sea and ferry links are vital. The ferries can save you many road miles and that Scottish institution Caledonian Macbayne offers regular services including sailings to the Inner & Outer Hebrides. You can even buy an Island Hopper ticket from Calmac facilitating a multi-island trip. If you want to get further afield the Hebrides offers wonderful opportunities with an end of the world feel that’s hard to beat. The Highlands and Islands have a great deal to offer, just avoid the tourist hotspots or travel out of season to avoid the crowds. The NC500, for example, has been the victim of its own success and numbers now using the route are placing a strain on the sparse local facilities. Frankly, it’s best avoided at the height of the season though there is still so much to see and do beyond the obvious choices.
"WHILE IT'S GREAT TO FIND SOME ISOLATED SPOT TO PITCH UP, IT'S ALSO NICE TO HAVE SOME BASIC FACILITIES AND THERE ARE WONDERFUL CAMPSITES DOTTED AROUND THE HIGHLANDS"