Understanding the Series I
Originality, and acceptance or desirability of modifications, can be as important as condition for buyers, as Ed Evans explains
Originality and desirability of mods can be as important as condition for some
OUR Series I buying guide, elsewhere in this issue, highlights the broad spectrum of potential Series I buyers, from investors who simply hope for a financial return to the real enthusiasts who want to ride, restore and maintain a piece of motoring history. So, on this vehicle, originality can be as important as condition. Plenty of parts have been substituted on Series I models, partly because issues were rectified on later ones whose parts could be swapped over. This is due to the fact that basic utility Land Rovers lend themselves to owner modifications using parts from other vehicle brands of the era, but also because of sheer enthusiasm for these little trucks for overlanding, business use and trialling – all of which demanded their own particular tweaks. These changes are all a genuine part of the history and have a right to be preserved. Genuine standard, or genuine modified – it’s totally a personal choice.
What you buy really depends on your philosophical approach to these classic trucks. A battle worn, faded and dented example will be stacked in character because you can see that it’s old and has lived a life, and will happily give plenty more real use to its owner without depreciating in value. An extreme restoration may be devoid of personality and be simply a perfected replication of what used to be, and the sort of vehicle you almost dare not use for risk of damage and increasing the recorded mileage, to the detriment of its financial value.
Whatever your flavour in Series I, the following tips will give an overview of the type. Many knowledgeable enthusiasts and specialist businesses can offer help in choosing, using and maintaining Series Is, and in sourcing original and remanufactured spare parts. My advice to anyone new to buying a Series I is to join the club before you buy (lrsoc.com).
Body and support structure
This might sound odd with a Series I, but body panel alignment is important. Not necessarily for aesthetics, but poor panel alignment gives a clue to poor repair or restoration. There should be a level line from the bottom edge of the rear wing (ahead of the rear wheel) straight along the bottom edge of the door and along the bottom of the front wing to the wheel arch. The gaps should be reasonably equal up the side of the bulkhead against the door and against the front wing. And the door top leading edge should follow the side of the windscreen frame. Restoring a bulkhead on a Series I is quite an art due to complexity of the structure and curved shapes and, if not done correctly, alignment will never be right.
Bulkheads corrode badly on the A-post and along the upper face beneath the windscreen frame’s rubber seal, in fact, they can corrode in most places, including the footwells, so every inch needs checking including the upper area from the interior. On 80 inch models, check the mounting area around the steering box. Bulkhead repair is a skilled job, so be on the lookout for dodgy DIY attempts.
Moving forward, check the steel front panel (ahead of the radiator) for serious rusting on the 88 and 109 inch models (earlier models had aluminium panels).
Underside
Many examples have a galvanised chassis which should be worry free, but it’s nice to have the original chassis even though
that will necessitate a very thorough inspection all over, despite a pristine appearance. The usual front dumb irons, rear crossmember and outriggers come to mind, but any part of the chassis can be in a bad state, including the main longitudinal sections. Everything is usually repairable though, unless you’re buying a bent basket case; and new chassis and repair sections are available.
Inspect the fuel tank visually for corrosion where dirt and damp collects around the underside support. Check for rust flaking between the leaves of the suspension springs – it expands and solidifies the springs, reducing their flexibility. Some leaf springs may have been oiled or greased and subsequently covered with a wrapping to keep water out and preserving lubricant in. It’s a traditional
treatment and is fine, but makes it near impossible to check for broken leaves, other than by driving.
Check how she rolls
Check and listen how the vehicle rides and moves, preferably freewheeling slowly on a rough descent with the engine off. You might hear those cracked leaf springs knocking. Don’t expect comfort, but stability and good articulation are standard.
Keep an ear out for wheel bearing noise at the same time. Worn front wheel bearings will be noticeable when lightly cornering, rears when driving with a light throttle on a level road.
When you get used to the gears and the clutch and the use of the accelerator during gear changes (don’t rush them), the box and gear selection should feel responsive, but don’t expect precision, nor tightness. If selection feels excessively loose, the repair is not expensive. Remember that first and second gears do not have synchromesh, so you’ll need to learn to double-de-clutch.
Try the brakes at various speeds, building up as you confirm they’re safe. If they pull to one side, or a wheel locks up, the cause is almost certain to be poor adjustment of the shoes, though possibly wear in the front axle swivel assemblies or oil contamination on any wheel.
Steering
Expect up to 50 mm free movement in the steering wheel; any more suggests there may be excessive wear in the steering box or relay. Have someone rock the steering wheel while you feel for play in the joints and swivels and the steering box and its mounting. The relay is difficult to test, but wear and stiffness can produce serious wandering (lubrication is often missed). If the steering tends to wander when driving straight ahead, suspect bearing wear inside the front axle swivel hubs. An occasional jolt from the steering when off-road on a tight lock is normal for most models which had universal joints in the axle shafts (this doesn’t apply to earlier models which had the Tracta joints).
On 80 inch models check for fracture of the aluminium type steering box (where fitted) where the column connects, which is obviously a serious concern.
Electrics
The wiring is simple, but beware of poorly executed modifications and repairs, and inspect the loom for age-related deterioration. Replacement looms are readily available and are relatively simple to fit if a methodical approach is taken. Electrical hardware such as starter, dynamo, wiper motors, lights and voltage regulator can all be bought and/or refurbished.
Engines
A healthy petrol engine will start straight away and run smoothly, and will rattle and tap quietly. A noisily rattling and tapping engine may be suffering wear in the valvetrain: camshaft, followers and rocker shafts. If a petrol engine’s starter motor is suspect, its removal could turn into a difficult job due to corrosion of its aluminium housing.
The 2.0-litre (2052cc) diesel is rare, and its single advantage of better fuel consumption is no longer significant. It should start well, though needing time on the heater plugs before it’s cranked over. After starting, it needs to run smoke-free, and it is naturally noisy and not very potent. Unusually, the diesel’s maximum torque is lower, and produced at higher revs, than the 2.0-litre petrol engine.
Low power in either engine type may be due to bore wear, or a diesel may be suffering valve seat burn and associated head damage, but it’s difficult to assess low power on a Series I unless you’re very familiar with the vehicles. Low oil pressure could be due to excessive wear in the timing chain’s hydraulic tensioner or, more seriously, general engine wear.
Lack of originality may not be a concern when buying because, even if modified or of incorrect specification, you still have a Series I and the experience of driving one. But when you come to sell, any non-standard points could be used to bargain your price down, so bear that in mind when agreeing your own buying price.
Many less desirable aspects of the early vehicles have been eliminated by substituting improved parts from later models. That was fine until a few years ago, but may now constitute an authenticity issue for some prospective owners. Of course, parts have been replaced as routine repairs, and sometimes replaced by used parts from other vehicles. Many parts, such as radiator, dynamo, carb, axles, wheels and anything Lucas were date stamped during production (0757 would signify a July 1957 build) and this provides a guide to originality.
Engines
Because originality is so important now, the original engine is the safe bet. But well fitted Series II engines were a regular modification, as was the Ford V6, even V8s. There is an interest factor in such vehicles (especially where modifications are in keeping with the era), and they are likely to be more affordable, but expect them to be harder to sell on in the future.
Underside
Parabolic suspension springs were often fitted to improve ride comfort and increase axle articulation off road, and often fitted with unmatched damper ratings. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with the standard springs in good working order, and their authenticity is arguably more important currently. If replacement springs have been fitted, they need to have come from a good source – some did not have the correct rating and set.
There may be some examples remaining with a Series II or III rear crossmember grafted on. This spoils authenticity and is of no advantage – but anything can be rectified.
Electrics
These positive earth vehicles were built with a dynamo, though some have been converted to alternator power to handle additional electrical loads. However, the original dynamo is quite capable of handling the standard electrical needs, and is a lovely period piece.
Trafficators fitted to early 80 inch models are quaint and now rare, but the addition of flashing indicator lamps is a good (probably essential) modification to have, because no one notices trafficators on an old vehicle. Dual filament bulbs may have been fitted, with an additional circuit, to flash the existing side lamps.