haven on a hillside

a s the sky shimmers with early autumn sunshine, the heather-dusted flanks of The Roaches, worn smooth by the elements, stand over the nearby town of Leek. Below, visitors to the area marvel at the silent sentinels of Hen Cloud, Five Clouds and Ramshaw Rocks proudly guarding the southern entrance to the Peak District National Park. Standing 1,640ft (505m) high and covering 975 acres, The Roaches rise above the Staffordshire Moorlands. They are the most prominent part of a curving ridge that extends for several miles, from Hen Cloud in the south to Back Forest and Hanging Stone in the north-west. At the top rests Doxey Pool which, according to legend, is inhabited by a water spirit. Nestling on the hills at 985ft (300m), Roaches Tea Rooms is a welcoming sight to those who make it this far up. Owner Karen Oliver loved the place as soon as she saw it. “The tea rooms first opened in the 1990s, and the previous owners kept them for more than two decades,” she explains. “My husband Andrew is local, and he visited regularly with his parents. I first saw the tea rooms in 2005 when we were living in Manchester and my in-laws brought me here when visiting the area. The light on the hill at the time we stepped out of the car was just incredible, and it felt a very special place, so special that we decided to have our wedding reception here. Dancing in the car park after our wedding meal with the spectacular views as a backdrop is a memory I will always treasure.” Just over two years later, the couple were looking to move and heard the tea rooms were for sale. “They had been closed for some time, but we had no doubt they could be successful again. We bought them with my in-laws and have run them as a family business since. We live on site with our two sons.” The tea rooms are housed in an old farmhouse which dates back to 1883, and the accompanying holiday cottages are even older and once were home to the farm’s cows. The tea rooms have a traditional feel, opening out onto a patio for warmer days and with a conservatory which offers shelter without compromising the scenery. On a clear day, the views extend over Leek and the Tittesworth Reservoir towards Stoke, Shropshire and Snowden, proving a strong draw for visitors. “We haven’t changed much because what we offer is what our customers want,” explains Karen. “The conservatory is to be re-built so we can serve more people as it’s a popular place to sit. I find our customers want to escape the bustle of everyday

Traditional tea rooms with dramatic views make the most of local fare

life, and the conservatory offers that, whatever the weather.” Roaches Tea Rooms cater for its visitors by offering a breakfast, lunch and evening menu, and Karen sources the ingredients locally. The meat is from butchers in the National Park, and the fruit and vegetables arrive from a wholesaler in Congleton. Even the ale is brewed at the Staffordshire Brewery in Leek, just a few miles away. “Our afternoon teas are popular, with our cherry, fruit and herb scones being legendary in the area,” says Karen. “Our regional speciality is Staffordshire oatcakes, supplied to us by the Leek Oatcakes shop. Traditionally, oatcakes are served with melted cheese and bacon or sausage, but we now offer the choice of beans, egg, tomatoes, mushroom and onion too, due to demand. Our Hen Cloud hot chocolate is loved by the younger customers. It has mounds of cream and marshmallows, and we shape it as close as we can to the hill it is named after.” Life on The Roaches is not fast paced, but it is spectacular. “I feel lucky every day to live and work on the hill,” muses Karen as twilight descends. “This part of the Peak District is pretty much an undiscovered area, with Derbyshire being the most popular. This means it is busy, but not hectic, which is perfect.”