Coastal journey rich in drama
A steam railway and ferry link colourful Paignton to ancient Dartmouth, along a route with strong ties to a literary great
Mellow early autumn sunshine washes across sandy beaches as white-edged waves lap the pillars of a Victorian pleasure pier. Wrapped up against the sea breezes, families stroll along the Esplanade in the picturesque town of Paignton on the coast of Torbay in South Devon. A little more than 6 miles to the south-west lies a smaller town, rich in history. This is Dartmouth, a community that can trace its origins back for centuries, and, like Paignton, was mentioned in the Domesday Book. Linking the two is a steam railway, which runs along the coast through farmland and woods. Today, Paignton is a bustling place, with colourful facades and seaside shops. Originally a small fishing village, it took on a new lease of life in the 19th century when the railway line opened. It quickly grew into a popular holiday destination and still retains fine reminders of its Victorian popularity. One of these is the pier, which first opened in 1879. Jutting 780ft (238m) out into the sea, it boasted a grand pavilion on the seaward end. Paddle steamers would stop alongside, sailing between Torquay, to the north, and Brixham. Sadly, a fire in 1919 destroyed the pier head and buildings. This led to a decline in fortunes, exacerbated by it being sectioned in 1940 as a defence measure. It was not until 1980 that it saw major development with the building of new pavilions, attracting visitors once more.
Return to glory
Half a mile from the beach, in the middle of town, sit two significant elements of Paignton’s history. One is Queens Park Station, home to Dartmouth Steam Railway, the other Paignton Picture House. Grade II* listed, this cinematic treasure opened its doors just before the First World War. Architecturally important, the building also has a connection with crime novelist Agatha Christie, who was a frequent patron. “The Picture House first opened in March 1914,” says Paul Hawthorne. He is chairman of the Paignton Picture House Trust, which is overseeing its restoration. “The front of the building, with the stained glass window depicting an apple tree, is very much in the Art Nouveau style, as are the grand glass and wood entrance doors. Most of what is visible in the auditorium, such as the lighting, is Art Deco, dating from its 1930s refit. The building is a superb combination of the two styles. “It is considered by Historic England to be one of the most important historic cinema buildings in the UK and is the only one of its class and age not currently functioning as a cinema,” he says. Inside the building, a wealth of original features tell the colourful story of the cinema in its heyday. The auditorium is vast and gracious, with a lofty arched ceiling and plaster bosses depicting stars of the past, such as Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford. Rich red upholstery lends warmth to the huge space. The ornately curved balcony hangs above the stalls below, and at the back of the balcony, two theatre-style private boxes once provided seating for the affluent. An old sign displays the prices in equally old money. Tucked high up in the building is the projection floor, which still contains the fireproofing from 1914 and mighty 1950s projectors holding reel film. On a table in a storeroom, archive correspondence is displayed, dating from
1914 to 1970. This provides a continuous record of suppliers and information about costings, even down to the price of chocolate. The cinema closed in 1999 for economic reasons, leaving it as a time capsule of decayed grandeur. In 2015, the Trust was set up, buying the building with funds from Historic England. The dilapidated cinema had previously been owned by the adjacent steam railway, which had hoped to use it as an entrance portal. However, its listing meant that the necessary changes could not be made, so the railway sold it. “When we bought it, we commissioned a strategic review of local cinema business,” says Paul. “This showed that it was very difficult to survive now as a one-screen cinema. “The Trust has partnered with South Devon College on a number of different projects, and it produced a couple of successful shows here at the beginning of 2017, one called Memoirs of a Cinema. So we’ve had projection back on the screen. We are working with the college to ensure that the future of a restored cinema will strongly feature education and training.” The Trust was also helped by grants from the Rosalind Hicks Trust. Rosalind, who died in 2004, was Agatha Christie’s daughter. The author’s grandson Matthew Pritchard and great grandson James are keen supporters. “We are very happy to learn that there is a lot of affection for the cinema within the family and its representatives,” says Paul. “It’s a good opportunity for us to work with them to achieve something very meaningful. “Matthew and James came on a tour in autumn 2017, and Matthew sat in Agatha’s favourite seat, row two, seat two, without knowing it. The cinema has been used as a location for many adaptations of her books, such as Evil Under the Sun, as well as being the inspiration for theatres and cinemas in her novels.”
Transport in tandem
Just a few steps away from the Picture House is the red brick Queens Park Station, which was rebuilt by Dartmouth Steam Railway in 2012. From here, the steam trains run just across from the main line to London. It is an intriguing juxtaposition of eras, harking back to the time when it was all part of British Rail. Beside the platform, the gleaming black hulk of the steam engine, with its
line of carriages ranked obediently behind, is enormously nostalgic. Staff in authentic uniform hurry along the platform, engaging with passengers of all ages. A whiff of soot hangs in the air. The sense of excited anticipation is palpable. “The line wasn’t part of the Beeching cuts of the 1960s; it survived that,” says Andrew Pooley. He has been managing director of the Dartmouth Steam Railway and Riverboat Company for 11 years. “However, in 1972, British Rail was about to close the line. We bought it, and the stations went from being mainline to heritage stations and never went out of use. “Many of the railways that were closed were small, lightly-built branch lines. Here, it was built to take the highest grade traffic because it was originally designed to bring the coal inland from boats arriving at Kingswear. Both viaducts and the tracks can take the heaviest loads, which makes it more sustainable in terms of being able to carry the bigger locomotives.” The line to Kingswear opened in 1864. Designed by Brunel, it was built as a broad gauge railway before being converted to standard gauge, to fall in line with the rest of the country, in May 1892. The railway’s rolling stock is ex-British Rail and is maintained by the company’s professional staff. The carriages bear women’s names, such as Louise, because this appeals to their customers. Hugely redolent of childhood trips to the seaside, each has its own character and style. Two contain compartments linked by a corridor, their bench seats upholstered in blue fabric, with delightfully twangy springs, bouncy with the motion of the train. Luggage racks stand out from the wood panelling above. Old mirrors with the Great Western Rail logo are affixed to the panelling, mementos of an age when people bothered to tidy themselves up before alighting. Doors and windows are opened manually.
Bayside view
The first stop after leaving Paignton is Goodrington Sands, half a mile along the line. At this time, it is a request stop. “In autumn, when the trains aren’t running every day, if it’s misty, the salt air creates a kind of rust ‘paste’ on the rail,” says Andrew. “There is quite a steep section coming out of Goodrington, and the train slips, though you wouldn’t notice, but it’s easier if you don’t have to stop.” From here, the train runs along the coast, at times close to the water’s edge,
giving a breathtakingly expansive view across the whole of Torbay. Walkers wave at the train. Beach huts, now standing neatly behind the beach, are sheltered from anticipated storms later in the year. In another mile, near Broadsands Beach, the line swings inland, heading for Churston, just over a mile further on. This is where the railway’s main workshops are found, and the station is busy with train paraphernalia. Huge sheds sit beside the tracks. The original station buildings are smartly painted in browns and creams. Authentic advertisements adorn the walls, regaling the benefits of Brooke Bond Tea, Oxo and His Master’s Voice. Churston was the station used by Agatha Christie when she was at Greenway House, less than two miles away. Readers of The ABC Murders will recognise it as the ‘C’ in the book. One of Andrew’s first projects when he came to the railway was to build Greenway Halt, for those wishing to visit the novelist’s old home. Those alighting here must ensure they are in the correct carriage, however, as the platform is very short. From the halt it is a pleasing verdant walk of less than a mile to Greenway House, although there is a shuttle bus for the less energetic. The train continues its journey, passing through a tunnel that is more than 400yds (365m) long, with a noticeable fall in temperature. It emerges into the early autumn sunlight, cleaving its way through woodland flanking the Dart Valley, showing the first signs of mellow russet colour. As the leaves begin to drop at this time of year, glimpses of the river grow clearer. Sun paths cross the water, picking out myriad boats. Six miles from Paignton, the train arrives at Kingswear. Here, the steam
trains meet up with the railway’s ferry boats, which link the village with Dartmouth, across the water. Kingswear clads the hillside above the Dart Estuary, its roads steep and many of its houses bright with traditional seaside colours of blues, red and yellow. The stone church towers above the railway and the waterside. Through a cat’s cradle of rigging and boat masts, Dartmouth beckons a welcome from the other side of the estuary, its multi-coloured houses resembling a row of sugared almonds. Britannia Royal Naval College’s dominant façade stands to the north. The all-pervading plaintive mourning of gulls adds to the atmosphere.
Across the river
Just outside Kingswear station, a covered walkway leads down to the ferry. There are three that cross the river, although this one is just for foot passengers. “There has been a ferry crossing the Dart since the 14th century,” says skipper Ben Oakey. He has worked for the railway for several years, qualifying as a skipper in 2016. “This one was established when Brunel brought the train line to Kingswear, to bring people over to Dartmouth. From the Dartmouth side, they would buy their tickets in the station, and the ferry would then take them across the water to catch the steam train.” Dartmouth station is unique for never having had a train call there. In the 1860s, the intention had been to bring the railway over the river by bridge, but there was much opposition. A wealthy and influential local, Richard Harvey, who owned Greenway at the time, was averse to the idea and plans were blocked by the House of Lords. The Dartmouth station building served as a ticket office, but the train was boarded on the other side of the river and the bridge was never built. Today, it has a new life as a restaurant. Ben’s vantage point in the wheelhouse is ideal for wildlife-spotting. “We have a really big colony of seals at the Mew Stone, just outside the estuary, and they come up the river after salmon. We also see dolphins,” he says. The ferry takes a maximum of 158 passengers, and Ben is responsible for checking all aspects of the boat to ensure it is ready for the day. The crossing takes just a few minutes, but there is still time to enjoy the wood-and-field-coated hillsides on both banks of the estuary. They provide a stunning backdrop to Kingswear and Dartmouth. At the latter, the visitor is greeted by an array of floral displays, such as geraniums and begonias. This historic town has an abundance of attractive buildings, many half-timbered with overhanging upper storeys. One of the town’s sites of maritime antiquity is cobbled Bayard’s Cove, a quarter of a mile from the ferry landing. The area is well provided with benches for those who wish to simply sit and watch the boats drift by. Early visitors to the place included the Pilgrim Fathers, who moored here with The Mayflower and The Speedwell in August 1620 before embarking for America. At the far end is a ruined Tudor artillery fort. From here, both Dartmouth and Kingswear castles are visible, more than half a mile away on opposite sides of the estuary, sitting just below the coast path. They were built after it became apparent during the 100 Years War with France in the 14-15th century that the mouth of the Dart was a weak spot in England’s
defences. A great chain was installed across the estuary, which could be positioned at night to prevent the passage of ships. Dartmouth Castle remained in active service right up to the Second World War and is now cared for by English Heritage and open to visitors. Kingswear Castle is owned by the Landmark Trust and can be booked for holidays.
Literary connection
Less than a quarter of a mile from Bayard’s Cove, in Higher Street, is Dartmouth Community Bookshop. This opened in
“So, they went off together. But wherever they go, and whatever happens to them on the way, in that enchanted place on the top of the Forest, a little boy and his Bear will always be playing” A A Milne, The House at Pooh Corner
2011 after the town’s Harbour Bookshop closed. The latter had been opened in 1951 by Christopher Milne, the Christopher Robin of A A Milne’s enduring Winnie the Pooh stories. Manager Andrea Saunders, who also managed its predecessor, remembers Christopher very well. “He lived above the shop, later moving out of town and along the coast with his family,” she says. “He had moved to Dartmouth to get away from the Christopher Robin associations, wanting to retain a degree of anonymity. After he retired in 1984, new people took over, and I was working there. When he came into the shop, he would tell me to tell anyone who asked for him that he wasn’t there.” Today’s bookshop is still sought out. It is adorned with memorabilia, including a portrait of Christopher as a boy sitting on his father’s lap with the original bear. The current shop is housed in a building dating back to medieval times. Surrounding it are other venerable
buildings, including two Tudor merchants’ houses that have been completely reconstructed after a devastating fire in May 2010. As well as a wide range of books, the shop sells postcards of local photographs taken by shop volunteer Kathy Stansfield. She is also secretary of the committee of the not-for-profit cooperative that runs it. “A group of us retirees were grumbling into our beer about the fact that suddenly the bookshop was closing,” explains Tony Fyson. He is the chairman of the bookshop committee. “We were saying: ‘Somebody ought to do something about it’. There was silence. At that point, it dawned on us that it had better be us. “The crucial help was being able to buy equipment from the old shop and, of course, being able to persuade Andrea that we would make good employers. And now, although retail generally isn’t thriving, we are definitely viable. We set up in different premises just a couple of months after Harbour Bookshop closed after 60 years. We opened in December 2011.”
Step back in time
Just a few yards from the bookshop is one of Dartmouth’s quintessentially English tea shops, The Singing Kettle. This is also housed in a building dating back more than 500 years. It has been a tea shop for 30-40 years and reputedly boasts several ghosts, although the present owners have not seen them. Mismatched bone china graces the tables, and an egg timer arrives with the tea so that customers know just how long to let it brew. An array of tiered cake stands hang from the beams behind the counter. A black Bakelite phone sits on the wall beside a 1940s-style record player. “We took over in June 2017,” says Peter Lesbirel, who runs it with his wife, Angie. “We have made some changes to put our mark on it, but have kept much of the original. We’ve also bought a retro record player which can play vinyl LPs of old-time music and jazz to suit customers, who are invited to bring in their own records. It adds to the ambience.” Angie puts the tearooms’ success down to tradition. “A lot of people know the shop and seek us out when they come back on holiday. We specialise in cakes older people like, while trying to get the younger generation to appreciate the kind of food their grandparents would have baked. Our best seller is Victoria sponge, closely followed by fruit cake and apple pie, and they are all baked on the premises. “Much of the crockery was here when we arrived, but I buy a lot of replacement pieces in charity shops,” she says. “Some is donated by people who want to see their old treasures used.” Tradition and heritage go hand in hand in Dartmouth, a place of timeless and endless attraction. Together with Paignton, Kingswear and the steam railway, this is an area where visitors and residents alike delight in being able to enjoy the present within a setting that has strong links to the past.