Regional & Seasonal: Kishorn Seafood Bar, Scottish Highlands
A seafood restaurant near the waterside in Wester Ross makes the most of panoramic views and the local catch
UNDER WIDE SKIES, rolling hills are mirrored in the still waters between the isles of Raasay and Skye; their rippled reflections occasionally dispersed by a gentle breeze or small fishing boat as it bobs with the swell. A net is hung over one side; the deck laden with boxes of freshly caught shellfish, ready to be taken to a small, sky-blue log cabin nestled beside a glimmering sea loch, within view of the haul.
On the benches outside the cabin, small groups of people cluster together against the wind gusting down from the hills as they tuck into platefuls of fresh langoustines, oysters and crab. A happy chatter resonates inside; the seats thronged with people and the tables a patchwork of vibrant colour. Here, at the Kishorn Seafood Bar in the North West Highlands, food is often caught in sight of the restaurant and delivered directly to the kitchen door.
First established in 1996, the restaurant lies near the villages of Ardarroch and Achintraid, with views across Loch Kishorn to Skye and the Applecross peninsula. “We have spectacular views of the Cuillin Hills; snow-capped in winter and beautifully lit in summer,” says Lucy Kerr, who took on the restaurant in 2017. “There’s always something to see, whether it’s an ethereal landscape draped in mist, a glittering seascape or a passing squall. It’s beyond compare.”
The interior has been kept clean and simple, with chalky-white walls and woodwork painted in a cloudy grey. “This enables us to shift the focus from inside to out, where the vista is,” explains Lucy. “The field beyond our white picket fence is a haven for local wildlife. Visitors might be lucky enough to catch sight of a small herd of Dexter cattle or the stags that visit each year to feed for the rut, while they enjoy their lunch,” she muses. “We even have a resident otter family by the shore.”
As well as the scenery, the restaurant is best known for its fresh, locally sourced seafood. “Almost everything on the menu comes from within a 30-mile radius. We are lucky enough to have a small local fishing fleet which specialises in supplying langoustines, lobsters and crabs, as well as local boats with divers for scallops and razor clams,” says Lucy. “We support several local businesses which smoke and cure our salmon, make our specialist dill sauce and grow our salad leaves. Local and sustainable: that’s what we’re about.”
Sharing seafood platters overflow with local shellfish, including oysters, mussels and squat lobsters, which has earned the restaurant its stature. “Personally, my favourite dish is the scallops.
“We cook them slowly and serve them in a rich, buttery sauce, with crusty bread and salad leaves. They are served with a garlic and seaweed, or chilli and lemon butter, which allows visitors to choose based on preference,” she adds. “They’re full of flavour.”
After closing for winter, Lucy enjoys the start of the new season. “Spring is definitely my favourite time of year. The lambs are out in the fields, the hawthorns are flowering, the swallows have returned, and all the birds are chirping away while they hatch their new broods,” she explains. “The visitors are also returning, and it’s lovely to give a hearty Highland welcome to both new and familiar faces alike.
“I am often reminded what a privilege it is to live and work in such a remote and beautiful part of the world. It really is a hidden gem.”
CONTACT
Kishorn Seafood Bar, Kishorn, Strathcarron, IV54 8XA. Tel 01520 733240 www.kishornseafoodbar.co.uk
Open from 18 March to October. Hours vary from month to month so please check the website for details.