AN UNLIKELY ISLE

E A Hornel moved to Kirkcudbright in 1866, when he was three years old, having been born in Australia, although his parents had both been born and brought up here. He studied art in Edinburgh and Antwerp before returning to Kirkcudbright in 1885 and buying Broughton House in 1901, where he lived for the rest of his life with his sister Elizabeth. The house dates from the 18th century, with successive owners extending the property; something which Hornel continued. “He designed a huge, purpose-built studio, facing north for the light,” explains Carol. “Here, he could cut himself off and just work. He then built a gallery which connects to the studio and the rest of the house, and this became his shop window.”

Hornel moved in wealthy circles, inviting friends from Glasgow, Edinburgh and London, who would buy many of his paintings. He invested much of his wealth in property, which led to a very comfortable life spent travelling to far-flung destinations. This included a trip to Japan in 1893 that heavily shaped his own art, leading to paintings such as The Swans in 1899, Seashore Roses in 1906 and A Spring Roundelay in 1910. Despite their Japanese influence, these were all painted in Kirkcudbright using locals as subjects.

Many of his finest works of art can be admired when visiting Broughton, but it is the almost untouched nature of the house that makes it such a special place. It is easy to imagine Hornel entertaining guests, painting or quietly reading the poetry of Robert Burns. He amassed one of the largest collections of works by Burns in the world. He also accumulated works of art, sculpture, ceramics and books from his travels, all of which can be enjoyed when visiting Broughton House and Garden. “Hornel’s studio is open to visitors, and we now have an artist in residence, Ewan McClure,” continues Carol. “It is wonderful that the studio is now there for its original use.”

Hornel also extended and laid out the garden at Broughton House. “It’s incredibly popular, and we get visitors who just come to see the garden,” says Carol.

Stepping outside, the impact of the garden is immediate. Its layout remains as Hornel designed it, and, once again, the Japanese influence is strong. “It’s a series of garden rooms, with winding paths leading through it,” says Mike Jack, garden instructor at Broughton. “The top third includes ponds and stepping stones, with statues and stonework, while the plantings, such as maples and hydrangea, are Japanese natives. The middle area is more woodland and herbaceous plantings, while the bottom third is home to an Edwardian glasshouse, built by Hornel himself, plus a vegetable garden that would have supplied produce for the house.” The vegetable garden is still in use today, providing produce for the café at Broughton House.

Former prison

The Tolbooth Art Centre, also on the High Street, is well worth a visit. It is housed in a building that dates from 1629; once a Sheriff Court and a prison. A cramped cell within is reputedly where Elspeth McEwen, of Dalry, was held before her execution in 1698, having been accused of being a witch. Today, The Tolbooth further enhances Kirkcudbright’s reputation as a centre of artistic endeavour, displaying many artworks by those in the artists’ colony.

A fascinating insight into the history of Kirkcudbright can be found at The Stewartry Museum. Founded in 1879, it was originally located at the Town Hall, but as the collection

grew, it moved to a purpose-built museum on St Mary’s Street in 1893. Today, it exhibits an array of objects and photographs relating to the area, known as The Stewartry.

Woodland walk

For those seeking a little time away from the hustle and bustle of the town itself, Barrhill Wood is a marvellous spot to visit. Sitting just a short stroll from the town centre, this is a lovely area of mixed woodland and is particularly beautiful in early May, when a stunning display of bluebells carpets the woodland floor. There are also superb views across the town and the River Dee from here.

Kirkcudbright and the surrounding area has the charm, beauty, scenery and wildlife, and an artistic heritage that really strikes a chord for those who live here and those who visit. Whether it is a day trip, a short break or a fortnight’s holiday, almost everybody returns for more of what this gorgeous and welcoming town, and region, has to offer. And during May, when the heat is returning, the days are lengthening and the landscape is alive with flora and fauna, Kirkcudbright is perhaps the perfect spot to relax and watch the world go by.

It may even inspire those who visit this magical place to pick up a paintbrush and commit their own version of Kirkcudbright to canvas.

“Wi’ music wild the woodlands rang, An’ fragrance winged alang the lea, As down we sat the flowers amang, Upon the banks o’ stately Dee” Thomas Mounsey Cunningham, ‘The Hills o’ Gallowa’’

Despite its name, St Mary’s Isle is not actually an island, but a small peninsula to the south of Kirkcudbright town centre. Its lovely woodland and coastline offers peaceful walking as well as a wonderful array of wildlife, including orchids, red squirrels, woodpeckers, redshanks and curlew. St Mary’s Isle used to have a priory for the Augustinian canons, who would have served a semi-monastic life here between the 14th and 16th centuries. The coastal fringes of St Mary’s Isle provide a good view of the nearby island of Little Ross and its eponymous lighthouse. It is thought that the poet Robert Burns composed ‘The Selkirk Grace’ while visiting the Earl of Selkirk at St Mary’s Isle. A view across swirling waters to the 29-acre island Little Ross, with its white lighthouse on the summit.

Visitors to Broughton House step back in time to when artist E A Hornell lived there says Carol Ryall, (far left). Broughton’s garden expert, Mike Jack (left).

Kirkcudbright sits between dense woodland, rising behind its sturdy, but elegant buildings, and the glittering River Dee.

The Stewartry Museum may be relatively small, but it is crammed with displays of Galloway’s history and includes Art Nouveau book jackets by Jessie King.