Regional & Seasonal: Peacocks Tearoom, Cambridgeshire

George and Rachel Peacock transformed their home into a charming tea room on the banks of the Great Ouse in Ely

ASOFT CHUG REACHES its crescendo as a narrowboat trawls languidly by, sending ripples across the glassy surface of the River Great Ouse in Ely, Cambridgeshire. Spring’s gentle abundance has given way to swathes of deepening green; the riverbank rich in vegetation and lined with emerald willows. Each bows gracefully to the sky; their trembling leaves quivering at the slightest suggestion of a breeze.

Near the water’s edge sits an old, Georgian tea room, basking in the golden light. Its facade is veiled by a wall of cascading lilac wisteria, in front of which is a pretty garden dotted with tables and chairs, and enclosed by a white picket fence. On a sun-filled day in June, visitors can look forward to resting here awhile, watching the boats drift idly by while enjoying a light lunch in the warm air, surrounded by the heady scents of the season.

This is Peacocks Tearoom, a charming Fenland haven filled with curiosities, serving traditional cream teas and fresh, home-made food in the heart of the medieval town.

The tea room is owned by husband and wife team George and Rachel Peacock, who transformed their own home into the business in 2004. “Our Georgian house overlooks the river, and I mused that it would make a lovely location for a tea room,” says George. “Within the hour, Rachel had hatched a plan to turn my musings into a reality. We gave ourselves five months, and in June that year, we opened our doors, serving lunches and teas.”

Starting with just one room, it was not long before the tea room expanded to include other parts of the house. After gaining public recognition and receiving many accolades, the kitchen was expanded to cater for the increasing demand. “Customers were queueing out the door, so we eventually shared our kitchen space with them. The following year, we shared our dining room,” George laughs.

“As the tea room grew, our home dwindled, so we built ourselves a new house in the back garden by the riverside, where we have lived ever since.”

As a result, the tea room exudes a homely atmosphere, lovingly embellished with interesting ephemera. “Rachel has been selling antiques for years, and her love of period pieces and flair for decorating has really set the scene,” says George. Paintings, prints and old advertising signs adorn the walls,

while wooden cabinets brim with colourful teapots, pretty crockery and domestic antiques. A grandfather clock sits in the corner of one room, opposite which two wooden stands display a collection of period hats.

However, it is not just the cosy atmosphere and beautiful riverside setting that attracts customers. “There are certain expectations that come with the menu of a traditional tea room,” explains George.

“The Fens are famous for growing vegetables, and the Isle of Ely has a long record of fruit growing, so we like our recipes to be full of seasonal ingredients, like quinces, damsons, greengages, rhubarb and parsnips.

“Our tea list comprises more than 70 teas, and we have daily specials to add a bit of variety, usually a home-made soup, served with a freshly baked cheese scone, a melting quiche and a delicious pudding.”

Both George and Rachel look ahead to welcoming visitors, old and new, to share their love of the town and enjoy its bounty. “Ely is such an interesting place, with an incredible cathedral and one of the best bookshops in the world. Soon, the birds will be raising their first broods, the roses will be approaching their best, and our customers will be enjoying the garden once again,” muses George. “All in all, I guess we’re very lucky.”