CITY OF TREASURES IN A GOLDEN VALLEY
On the banks of the River Wye, the historic cathedral city of Hereford nestles amid gently rolling countryside where apple orchards abound
STANDING ON THE stone-built Wye Bridge in Hereford, its six arches stretching across the sun-shimmering water, the four pinnacles of the 12th century cathedral rise up from the city beyond. Below, the River Wye babbles softly, tickling the underbellies of lily-white swans as they search for food among flowing river plants. The warm July breeze carries with it scents of freshly mown grass and roses. The excited squeal of children playing drifts across from Castle Green and Bishops Meadow: vivid green spaces lined by shaded pathways and riverside walks.
Following the river south-east, beneath the iron lace-worked Victoria suspension bridge, built to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee, leads to the meandering Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Alternatively, heading north-west reveals historic villages dotted with black-framed and white-clad buildings, while to the west is the land that inspired the Narnia of C S Lewis: the verdant undulations of the Golden Valley.
Herefordshire is a forgotten puzzle piece in the jigsaw of the British countryside. It is one steeped in agricultural tradition, architectural craftsmanship and cultural prowess, yet it is a county often circumnavigated for the Black Mountains of Powys to the west and the Shropshire Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty to the north. But visitors who head off-route into what is one of the least populated parts of the UK will discover open skies and patchwork fields that lay across the county with subtle abundance and beauty.
Steeped in history
When it comes to nicknames and toponymies, Hereford has its fair share: ‘the place where the army crossed the river’; ‘the old road’; ‘Hereford in Wales’. Yet they all pay homage to the city’s century-long tug of war for an independent identity. From the Battle of Hereford, between the English and Welsh in AD760, when the city enjoyed a war-related increase in trade, to its torching by the Welsh in 1055, Hereford has both benefited and vitiated from its proximity to the Welsh border.
Perhaps because of its location, Hereford was often used as a defence spot during battle. In the 10th century, it became a burh, used to fend off the enemy, namely the Danes, during attack. By 1050, a castle was built in Hereford, and this
remained strong, alongside city walls built during the 12th century, throughout the middle ages. But it was the beating it took during the English Civil War of 1642-1646 that led to its demolition in entirety in 1660.
A bowling green, memorial column to Lord Horatio Nelson, who was made a freeman of the city in 1802, and a public space, aptly named Castle Green, now mark where it once stood.
In 1189, Hereford was granted a charter by Richard I, in which the city was described as ‘Hereford in Wales’, and when walking around the thronging pedestrianised streets of the city centre, the bucolic lilt of Welsh tones is evident in the air. So, too, are the contrasting colours of English accents, and it is this mix that makes Hereford so interesting, as demonstrated within the Victorian Gothic walls of the Hereford Museum and Art Gallery, on Broad Street. Exhibitions include a wood engraved timeline, detailed Kenchester mosaics from the Roman period and pencil and pastel drawings from Hereford-born artist Brian Hatton, who was killed in the First World War. The exhibits explore not only the history of Herefordshire, but how it has come to use its multi-faceted position as a cultural, agricultural, productive and, above all, resourceful border county to its advantage.
At the heart of the city is Hereford Cathedral, with its 170ft-tall (51.6m) bell tower. Since the 6th century, the bells, which now also include a 500-year-old 34cwt tenor bell, have signalled worship and special gatherings to the community. The cathedral itself was founded in AD696, but the earliest architecture visible today dates from 1107, when, following the conquest of England by the Normans, the cathedral was rebuilt in Norman, or Romanesque, style.
But perhaps most of note is the cathedral’s prized Mappa Mundi. The largest medieval map of the world in
existence, it records how scholars interpreted the world more than 700 years ago. Mapped within a Christian framework, Jerusalem is at the centre, with east at the top and Great Britain at the bottom, on the left.
Another treasure is the fascinating chained library, which has more than 1,500 rare books. These include 229 medieval manuscripts; the earliest and most important being the 8th century Hereford Gospels. The chaining of books was a common security method in European libraries from the middle ages, and Hereford Cathedral’s 17th century chained library is the largest to survive with all its chains, rods and locks intact.
The cathedral may have its foundations in deep history, but it is very much alive today, and arguably even more so during the summer. Throughout the season, visitors can climb the 218 steps to the top of its towers for unprecedented views across the city. In July, its tranquil gardens are bursting with hydrangeas, dahlias and roses. Tuesday lunchtimes draw musicians from around the world to perform on the Victorian Father Willis organ in its series of informal concerts, while for those ready to unwind after a day of exploring the independent shops of Church Street, the rich tones of the cathedral choir at evensong are a welcome tonic.
Among all this summer activity, the cathedral retains its symbolic allure. Perhaps that is because the Chapter House Gardens are open to accommodate those wishing to enjoy their tea and home-made cake among medieval ruins, as opposed to within the 15th century Bishop’s Cloister. Maybe it is because, as light streams in through the 30ft (9m) high ‘Ascension’ window, created in honour of the SAS from 3,000 pieces of European glass in 40 different colours, and the sound of sun-kissed laughter seeps through the solid walls, there is the lure of the city beyond.
Outside the cool of the cathedral’s stone cloisters, basking in the sunshine, is the bronze statue of former Hereford resident Sir Edward Elgar. Captured by sculptor Jemma Pearson, his beloved and aptly named Sunbeam bicycle in hand, the globally celebrated composer has been taking in the glory of Cathedral Green since 2005. The artwork was commissioned by the Elgar in Hereford Group to commemorate his arrival to the city in 1904.
Other notable residents of Hereford’s past include David Garrick, the 18th century actor and playwright, who found favour among audiences and critics for his relaxed, naturalistic acting; a style which was in deep contrast to the rather pompous, bombastic approach popular among other actors at that time.
Hereford is also claimed to be the birthplace in 1650 of the actress Nell Gwynne, celebrated favourite of Charles II. Pipe Well Lane, where the house was located, was later named Gwynne Street.
Reminders of the past
Within Hereford’s modern shopping precinct, a few reminders of its historic
past remain. The most impressive is an arresting half-timbered Jacobean building, dating from 1621, located in High Town. Originally a butcher’s home and business, this distinctive and beautifully well-preserved structure had also housed a saddlery and a bank before becoming a museum of Jacobean life in 1929. Formerly called The Old House, its name was changed to The Black and White House Museum following its refurbishment in 2017, but it continues to offer visitors a glimpse into life during the 17th century, with its rooms furnished in period style.
The Italianate classical facade of the Buttermarket overlooks Hereford’s High Town. Designed by John Clayton, this building began its eventful history in 1861. In the 19th century, this indoor market would have been the focal point of the city, both in terms of appearance, boasting an impressive iron-and-glass roof and mezzanine, and trade.
Today, that stone-carved facade stands stoic. It has overcome a fire that almost gutted the site in the 1920s; dips in trade: for many years it was treated as a cutthrough; and limitations in funding, which has resulted in many parts falling into disrepair.
However, local businessman Darren Sockett is just one of a new generation of forward-thinking entrepreneurs in Hereford who, together, are breathing new life and energy into neglected properties and shop windows.
“A wooden ceiling was put up in the 1970s to retain warmth,” explains Moira Davidson, who manages marketing for the Buttermarket. “The plan is to remove that, to reveal the original glass roof; to install solar panels for heating; and to make the upper floors, which feature a vaulted oak-beamed room that survived the fire, accessible to the public.”
This is the next step in a rejuvenation project that has already placed the
“Along the sculptures of the western wall I watched the moonlight creeping: It moved as if it hardly moved at all Inch by inch thinly peeping” Thomas Hardy, A Cathedral Façade at Midnight
Buttermarket firmly back among the city’s top shopping spots. The result is a vibrant hub of 45 independent traders, open six days a week throughout the year.
Alongside generation-serving stallholders stand fresh food producers and creatives, here the shopper can find everything from haberdashery to flowers, with delightful local produce, such as meat and dairy, Herefordshire-roasted coffee, handcrafted chocolates and fudge, and Herefordshire cider. This is a county famous for the sweetness of its soft fruit and the juiciness of its rare breed beef, and it is home to almost 50 producers of cider.
Cider country
“The earliest written record we have of cider making in Herefordshire dates back to 1400, but it was being made before that,” says Elizabeth Pimblett, museum director of the Museum of Cider, located at Pomona Place, which is a 15-minute walk from the city centre.
The museum tells the story of the rise of cider during the Civil War, when it was considered the beverage to drink, thanks to the introduction of the Red Streak apple variety to the county, to its fall out of fashion during Victorian times, when it was given to farmworkers as wages; and to its current revival with people moving from a wine-making background to produce award-winning cider.
Herefordshire is also the birthplace of Bulmers cider: the museum is itself set within the original factory buildings. Founders Fred and Percy Bulmer grew apples in their parents’ orchard before planting up 10 acres of fields in Ryeland Street in 1888 with different varieties of cider apple, including the Red Streak. The geography of the county, with the shelter of the Welsh hills plus Herefordshire’s expanses of rich, fertile soil, make for ideal apple tree growing conditions.
“The cider apples in Hereford are rich in tannins, which gives its cider depth, rather like a quality red wine,” says Elizabeth. “Other counties use dessert apples, which produce a sweeter and lighter cider.”
Other exhibits at the museum include an impressive collection of 18th century cider glasses, a display of watercolours and its Champagne Cider Cellars, featuring 10,000 bottles. During the 17th century, many cider makers were already testing secondary fermentation, using ‘a walnut of sugar’, which equates to approximately 20g. This is a process used in the making of Champagne. “So, we invented Champagne,” laughs Elizabeth.
In the museum shop, more than 150 ciders and perries are available for sale, the majority of which are from local producers. “Herefordshire is a melting pot of talent,” says Elizabeth. “People here aren’t afraid of experimenting or collaborating with others, and the results are really exciting.”
One such collaboration involves the milk of Mark Williams’ 120-strong herd of dairy cattle. This Golden Valley born and raised farmer, of Rowlestone Court Farm, has combined his dairy ingredient with Ty Gwyn cider from Alex Culpin, to form a flavoursome cider ice cream.
Located approximately 13 miles south-west of Hereford, through a seemingly untouched landscape, the farm has been producing dairy for generations: Mark is the third. Together with his wife, Mary, they have ridden the stormy waves of low dairy prices, bovine TB and climate change. The result, as for many farmers, is
“The road from heaven to Herford, Where the apple wood of Herford Goes all the way to Wales”
Gilbert Keith Chesterton, ‘A Cider Song’
a thriving, diversified farmstead.
Consigning himself to the fact his dairy would never be able to compete with the larger businesses, he and Mary looked into other ways of bringing in an income. “We talked about making yoghurts or cheese, but the market seemed flooded with them,” says Mark. “That’s when we came up with the idea of ice cream.”
That was in 2007. When milking, Mark separates the cream from the milk. He carries both a short walk across the yard to an ice cream-making space, where Mary combines it, in small batches, with egg yolk, sugar and local ingredients, such as soft fruit from nearby Windmill Hill Fruits, to form one of their 60 flavours. They also make award-winning sorbets, including pink gooseberry, and have even produced ‘cyder apple sorbet’, in collaboration with Gwatkin Cider of Abbey Dore, for Hereford Cathedral.
The warm summer weather means this is a busy month for the Williams family. But it is not only the ice cream that draws the public. With help from the Higher Level Stewardship scheme, Mark has opened up unfarmable areas of his land with footpaths and bridleways. He created a mile-long loop for people to meander along, which passes through woodland, wildlife gardens and 7 acres of wildflower meadows. There is an adventure trail for children, 19th century lime kilns to visit and farm animals to see.
“This part of the country is relatively unknown and undiscovered,” says Mark, looking out at his herd grazing against the backdrop of the Black Mountains. “There’s an element of how life used to be, here. We are giving people an opportunity to experience that.”
Secret garden
Travelling north-eastwards from Rowlestone, visitors pass through the heart of the Golden Valley, so named because of its river, the River Dore, and a false confusion with the French word ‘d’or,’ meaning ‘gold’.
There are pink sandstone villages, including Abbey Dore, famed for its Cistercian abbey; Peterchurch, with its rare three Norman arches; and Dorstone, where a castle once stood guard. Providing perhaps some of the most obvious contrasts to the raw beauty of Herefordshire’s farmland are the Golden Valley’s magical gardens, such as the
20-acre Kentchurch Court in Pontrilas. A more manageable but equally flourishing experience can be found, however, among the 7 acres of Brobury House, nestled on the banks of the River Wye between the villages of Brobury and Brewardine.
Landscaped in 1881, when the house was built, and extended in the 20th century, the terraced grounds are a floral retreat from the county’s sea of green fields and pasture. Wisterias and clematis ramble across arches and alcoves, and dahlias puff up their heavy heads towards cadmium skies. Alliums peek their royal purple heads out of borders in a bid to catch a view of the River Wye beyond.
But it has not always been this way.
“The house was in quite a state of disrepair, and the grounds were out of control,” says current owner Pru Cartwright, recalling the chance dog walk that she and her husband, Keith, had been on when they had discovered Brobury House crying out for help. “But, beneath it all, you could see that it was special.”
So followed a relocation from Gloucestershire and 10 years of hard work to create a garden with interest throughout every season.
From cutting back window-blocking shrubs to excavation work to weave three formal water features through the terraced
plot, no part of this site was left forgotten. And, in the middle of the garden stands the turreted, Bodmin-stoned house.
Summer is when Brobury’s grounds are at their most abundant. There is rose bush upon rose bush, and the borders artfully overflow with lavenders, peonies and salvias. There is gentle sound and movement everywhere: buzzing bees, flittering butterflies and darting dragonflies by the pond lilies.
There are also fine examples of arboreal planting: 130ft (40m) evergreens; Victorian cedars: the cedar of Lebanon,
“Play it like something you hear down by the river”
Edward Elgar, on the trio of the second movement of his Symphony No.1
Atlantic cedar and deodar cedar; strong oaks; and a striking stand of paper birches.
As the sun moves across the sky, illuminating every corner of the garden in turn, the sound of the River Wye trickles up through the valley. It is a reminder of Hereford, 12 miles in the distance, where, carved into the base of the statue of Sir Edward Elgar at its cathedral are the words: ‘This is what I hear all day – the trees are singing my music – or have I sung theirs?’ Here, in the gardens of Brobury House, Elgar’s words are brought to life, with Pru and Keith’s vision a testament to the devotion of Herefordshire and its inhabitants, and the respect paid to its natural resources and countryside.
Certainly, this is an area well worth exploring, from its beautiful, wide open spaces to the historic city of Hereford itself, and offering natural symphonies of its own, both in sound and in colour.