Regional & Seasonal: The Angel Bakery, Monmouthshire
Amid the stunning scenery of south-east Wales, a flourishing bakery offers high-quality bread
BOUNDED BY SNOW-CLAD mountains and distant hills flecked with white, the historic town of Abergavenny nestles in the south-east corner of the Brecon Beacons National Park, at the confluence of the glistening waters of the River Usk and a tributary stream: the Gavenny. Often referred to as the ‘Gateway to Wales’, the small town is also known for its vibrant food culture, with a flurry of producers converging on the area as well as a monthly farmers’ market and the internationally renowned annual food festival.
Tucked away on a lane that leads to the beautiful ruins of the town’s castle, The Angel Bakery has become an integral part of the food scene. Offering a selection of baked sourdough loaves, sugar-coated pastries and iced cakes, as well as sandwiches and roasted coffee, everything is lovingly made by hand by a small team of experienced bakers. The smells of freshly baked goods waft tantalisingly into the narrow lane, conjuring images of warmth and comfort to indulge the senses on a blustery day in winter.
The bakery opened in 2016, making long-fermented sourdough and enriched breads. “Our friend Adam, an experienced baker, had been designing the bakery for the owner,
William, a year before we moved down to open it,” says head baker Sophie Kumar. “To be able to make high-quality produce, which would normally go to restaurants, available for residents in a relatively small town feels very special.”
Fresh sourdough bread, in a range of sweet and savoury combinations, is among the bakery’s speciality. It is naturally leavened in a 36-hour fermentation process to allow a lightness of texture and a depth of flavour. Baked loaves are transferred straight from the oven to the bakery shop throughout the day.
All the breads and pastries are made using organic British milled flours and grains. “We buy stoneground flour from two traditional watermills in Wales: Felin Ganol in the seaside village of Llanrhystud, Ceredigion, and Y Felin in St Dogmaels, Pembrokeshire. We also source natural ingredients from Gilchesters Organics, who grow and mill all their grain in Northumberland; Cann Mills in Dorset; and organic flour from Shipton Mill in Gloucestershire,” adds Sophie.
“For us, it’s our connection to local producers and communicating what we do with our customers to try to establish a long-term, environmentally sustainable local food chain that makes the bakery so special. We’ve been working
with a farmer over the last few years and are hoping that from her next harvest, all of our wholemeal flour will be from wheat that has been grown just 6 miles away.”
Through their relationship with local producers and further afield, the bakery has evolved, providing a new online grocery store selling fresh fruit and vegetables from Monmouthshire and the Wye Valley, as well as dairy products from Somerset and Herefordshire. “Our new online shop has a larger product range. We deliver in our vans to homes locally or send couriers for next-day delivery midweek,” says Sophie.
The start of a new year allows time for her to reflect on what has normally been a busy few months. “The Abergavenny Food Festival usually takes place at the end of September and is the busiest weekend of our year. We then begin preparations for Christmas: ordering moulds, making mincemeat and using the last of the autumn glut in preserves for winter.”
But in the quieter months, there is an opportunity for Sophie and the team to slow down and enjoy the beauty surrounding the town. “It is a lovely time of year to be in the Black Mountains, so we use these tranquil moments to get out walking before the busy season begins again.”