ONE LEICESTER STREET

1 Leicester Street, WC2 (020 3301 8020; oneleicesterstreet.com) Chef Tom Harris mans the open kitchen at one end of the simple dining room. Here, Middle White pork

belly is turned into a delicious wafer-thin ham starter, with changing seasonal vegetables — right now, sour

cabbage and mustard (£8.50). The crispy devilled pig’s skin with smoked

cod’s roe (£7) is also wonderful.