ONE LE­ICES­TER STREET

London Evening Standard (West End Final B) - ES Magazine - - Food -

1 Le­ices­ter Street, WC2 (020 3301 8020; onele­ices­ter­street.com) Chef Tom Har­ris mans the open kitchen at one end of the sim­ple din­ing room. Here, Mid­dle White pork

belly is turned into a de­li­cious wafer-thin ham starter, with chang­ing sea­sonal veg­eta­bles — right now, sour

cab­bage and mus­tard (£8.50). The crispy dev­illed pig’s skin with smoked

cod’s roe (£7) is also won­der­ful.

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