Murray’s mint
JASON CRANWELL lives it up in a magnificent Perthshire country pile
STAYCATIONS in Perthshire have held a familiar inevitability for me since childhood.
Crieff Hydro resort, once an omnipresent school holiday memory, is now the go-to mini-break for my own tween terror.
So how do other hotels in the region end the stranglehold of this perennially popular resort?
For the Murrayshall Country Estate, 20 miles away in Scone, the first step is to throw money at the problem.
The precursor to a £30million spa and leisure club expansion, the owners have recently renovated 14 suites in an annexe about 50 yards from the main building.
A haven of spoil-yourself luxury, they are so vast that the WhatsApp video tour I did to brag to friends about my room went on for more than two minutes.
The colossal bathroom boasts a freestanding tub and walk-in shower with organic Hebridean ishga skincare; the bedroom’s king-sized mattress hits that elusive sleep sweet spot of being neither too soft nor aggressively firm; while the adjoining lounge is furnished with a six-seater dining table, plush sofas and the most inviting armchair/footrest combo.
The sound of silence permeates at Murrayshall (pronounced “Murrays Hall”), a four-star retreat with five-star quality dining hidden away in a serene corner of this medieval town, secluded by swathes of evergreenery.
Perched at the top of a fair old incline, the hotel delivers a majestic panorama for those opting for table service in the gardens. This is mindfulness for suburbanites.
Breathe in that pure hinterland air. At night, the stars come out, undimmed by light pollution.
Just tilt your head up and then bask in the infinite. Hello darkness, my old friend.
Murrayshall may not be on the same scale as the sprawling Crieff Hydro but it’s certainly no tiddler, with 365 acres offering limitless opportunity for strolls and hikes through lush fields and snaking streams plus 18-hole and nine-hole golf courses on site.
Just 2.5 miles away is prime tourist attraction Scone Palace.
An opulent private estate, its gardens feature towering Douglas firs (introduced 200 years ago by head gardener and renowned botanist David Douglas, Scone’s most famous son), roaming peacocks and River Tay views, while the palace itself has a labyrinth of grandiose halls, ornate artefacts and also, one suspects, monumental winter heating bills. I enjoyed a sumptuous afternoon tea here – well, it’s pretty neat to be able to say that you’ve scoffed scones at Scone Palace.
This landmark has borne witness to some weighty history, being Scotland’s ancient kingcrowning capital and original home of the Stone of Destiny, which is returning to the region this month to coincide with the opening of the new £26.5million Perth Museum.
After heading back to Murrayshall, it was time for laser clay shooting and axe-throwing on the lawn followed by the much less aggressive pursuit of a 30-minute back, neck and shoulder massage. The indulgence peaked at dinner in the hotel’s award-winning Eolas restaurant where I was served slabs of venison with black garlic and fermented spelt cooked to perfection, as well as a pear crumble soufflé that made an absolute mockery of my insistence that I was not a soufflé fan.
Like most things at Murrayshall, prepare to have your expectations exceeded.
At night, the stars come out, undimmed by light pollution.
Jason Cranwell