The Caribbean’s hidden gem EMMA MOUNTFORD
Heads to St Kitts – one of the lesser-known islands, but one with lots to offer
WHEN you picture the perfect Caribbean holiday, certain images inevitably spring to mind. Year-round golden sunshine, endless white beaches, sparkling turquoise seas, palm trees gently swaying in the breeze – and the only worry being what time you should start on the cocktails.
Undoubtedly the odd afternoon snooze in a hammock will be involved as well. And rum punch. Obviously.
What you probably don’t imagine is tucking into a massive Curry Mile-style Indian buffet at 1pm on a boiling lunchtime, piling plates with handmade samosas, aloo gobi and naan breads – despite the 30 degree heat.
But that’s the thing about St Kitts. It has everything you could possibly want from a Caribbean holiday. And things you didn’t even know you wanted - like veg korma as a postsunbathing snack.
And while each Caribbean island has its own unique identity and rhythm – from the party capitals of Barbados and Jamaica to the laid back charm of Antigua and jaw-dropping natural beauty of St Lucia – St Kitts is no different.
Despite covering just 68 square miles, it is packed with beautiful beaches, lush tropical rainforest – framed by the dramatic volcanic peak of Mount Liamuiga – incredible scenery and a rich history to explore.
It also has lots of opportunities for nights out with the famous party strip at Frigate Bay, late-night beach bars and live music, a wide range of restaurants and plenty of places to enjoy the stunning sunset. With all that it’s a wonder why the island has stayed off the radar of many tourists, but this ‘hidden gem’ of the Caribbean is definitely worth checking out.
A DIFFERENT VIEW OF THE ISLAND
There are many ways to get a taste of what St Kitts has to offer. But perhaps the most picturesque is a trip on the Scenic Railway – the ‘last railway in the West Indies’.
Finished in 1926, the railway used to transport sugar cane from the plantations around the island. But since the closure of the last sugar mill in 2005, it now transports tourists, looping leisurely on an 18-mile route around the coast as the beautiful voices of an a cappella choir serenade you in time to the rolling sound of the carriages.
And while the doubledecker train makes its way through towns, old plantations and tropical vegetation, you’ll also get to enjoy a glass or two of rum punch.
If you want a more adrenaline-packed experience, then you can see the sights as you skim over the tree tops on a 1,350ft zip line. Run by Sky Safaris, brave travellers can take on five lines which will whizz you through the rainforest.
But if you prefer a vantage point on firmer footing, the best view on the island comes at the top of Timothy Hill where you can take in a 360 degree view of the island.
A TASTE OF HISTORY
As tempting as the beaches are, it would be a shame to go to St Kitts and not experience the local culture and history.
A day can easily be spent leisurely winding through the streets of the capital of Basseterre and learning about its colonial past. Located next to the port, you can explore the narrow colourful streets, shops, restaurants, markets, churches and art gallery as well as the National Museum and Independence Square.
For those who want to find out more about the island’s heritage then a trip to Brimstone Hill Fortress should be on your list.
The military bastion – now a Unesco World Heritage Site – was built by slaves in 1690 to house British soldiers.
It was abandoned in 1825 but has since been restored and now has a museum featuring exhibits giving a detailed account of the fort’s history and what life was like for the soldiers and the slaves. And if you climb to the top of the fort, you’ll also get an awe-inspiring view of the coast.
An afternoon should also be spent at the former sugar mill at Wingfield Estate. Unearthed by Englishman Maurice Widdowson, he has made it his work to ensure this important part of St Kitts history is preserved.
Visitors are given a fascinating insight into the estate’s past, as well as being able to see the restored mill, kiln, masonry, and parts of the aqueduct and an old rum distillery which have been excavated.
Nearby you can also wander around the acres of beautiful gardens of Romney Manor and visit Caribelle Batik – where you can watch live demonstrations of the traditional hand-dyeing process.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
To escape the yearround heat – and have a bit of an adventure – you can delve deep into the rainforest on a 4x4 tour.
Not only will you get to see the colourful vegetation up close and learn about the various plants and fauna, there’s also a chance you’ll catch a glimpse of some of the local wildlife, including wild green monkeys. And, despite being deep in the rainforest you won’t miss out on local delicacies and rum punch, as guide Greg Pereira hosts the perfect picnic with views across the island.
For those with a head for heights you can also hike up the extinct volcano of Mount Liamuiga, although at 3,792ft it is definitely not for the faint-hearted (or the unfit).
If all that sounds like too much exertion, don’t panic. There are plenty of places to spend a few days lying on the golden sands.
And unlike many Caribbean islands it’s easy to find a beach that isn’t packed with tourists. North Frigate Bay on the Atlantic side of the island and Banana Bay in the south are particularly stunning. But for a more lively day at the beach then head to Cockleshell Bay where you can enjoy a variety of different watersports and grab a water taxi over to Nevis.
DINE LIKE A KITTITIAN
There is something for everyone to enjoy when it comes to food in St Kitts.
For a laid back lunch then stop off at Ital Creations. This roadside pop up-style cafe serves up vegan and vegetarian street food, all sourced from owner Judah Fari’s eco farm just behind the cafe. Or head to Reggae Beach bar and Grill for fresh salads, burgers, sandwiches and a local beer while soaking up the atmosphere.
For a casual evening meal then the Sunset Cafe at Timothy Beach Resort offers a buffet-style restaurant serving up traditional Caribbean fare. After which it’s just a short walk to the dock for cocktails and live music.
For more refined dining then it has to be Spice Mill. Set on the beach you can enjoy stunning views of Nevis and listen to the waves lapping on the shore as you sip on a pre-dinner cocktail before tucking into a menu bursting with fresh fish, seafood and fantastic vegetarian choices. Just make sure you don’t leave without trying the Johnny Cakes.
For a restaurant that is a hit with the locals as well as tourists then it has to be Marshalls. Set around an elegantly lit pool with stunning ocean views, it manages to blend local ingredients with an international flavour, and the desserts are incredible.
And if you do fancy a curry – because who can go a week without one? – then it has to be Bombay Blues. Located at Frigate Bay North, this popular restaurant fuses authentic Indian cuisine with Caribbean hospitality and charm (and they do an allyou-can-eat buffet on a Sunday).
WHERE TO STAY
The Caribbean is famed for its all inclusive, huge resorts. But on St Kitts it’s all about the authentic West Indies experience. And while there are a couple of big name hotels, there are also plenty of boutique hotels, converted plantation houses, beachfront villas and quaint resorts to fully immerse yourself in island life.
One of the best places to stay is the recently renovated Ocean Terrace Inn.
Just a short drive from the airport and near to the capital of Basseterre, the boutique hotel delivers Caribbean charm and hospitality while providing state-of-the-art accommodation.
Set on a hillside with spectacular views over to Basseterre, the dock and Caribbean sea, the hotel is surrounded by colourful gardens weaving around a lagoon style pool. Each room is elegantly furnished with comfortable king or queen-size beds and private balconies giving you another taste of that view.
But it’s the personal touch that makes the hotel stand out. From a rum punch on arrival and friendly staff, to the free shuttle bus to the beach and that unsurpassed Caribbean welcome, it’s very easy to make yourself at home.
Let’s face it, nobody likes going home after a holiday, but in typical Kittitian fashion even that ordeal is made enjoyable. A new luxurious private airport lounge gives visitors the chance to relax and savour their last couple of hours on the island.
At the luxury private terminal Yu Lounge you can have a shower and freshen up, enjoy canapes and champagne as the concierge takes care of your luggage, and you catch the last rays of sun on the terrace before being escorted directly to the plane steps by car.
And if you really have to leave the beauty of St Kitts behind, that surely has to be the best way to do it.