The city of light shines by night
KATE FIELDER sees another side to the French capital on a vintage car tour under the cover of darkness
SITTING back in a comfortable seat on a packed Air France plane, I was served complimentary crisp, cool wine by a glamorous attendant, along with the most perfect snack for the occasion- a trio of delicate macaroons.
The sweet treats set the mood perfectly and were the most appropriate accompaniment to the wine we raised in a toast to an exciting weekend jaunt to Paris.
Just a few hours later I found myself wandering along the streets of Le Marais.
I discovered a Parisian district dripping with culture, framed by delightfully historic buildings and a lively yet laid back atmosphere. It’s a charming and chic part of France’s capital city.
From the trendy boutique hotels and vintage stores, the stylish restaurants and bars, the museums and trendy art galleries, Le Marais is one of the hippest areas of Paris – a cosmopolitan district, which is also home to a thriving gay scene.
It’s the perfect place to people-watch, seeing many locals huddled together on the pavements drinking and chatting and smoking – even on a cold and rainy evening.
My base for the weekend was in the wonderful Haut Marais, the oldest quarter of Paris – the elegant yet quirky Hotel du Petit Moulin.
It’s a hotel that makes you feel like you have stumbled upon secret treasure as soon as you get through to reception.
The Hotel du Petit Moulin is housed in a building which oozes history.
Clever nods to the building’s heritage as Paris’s first bakery include the ornate painted glass ‘boulangerie’ facade - the original shop frontage. It’s protected under French heritage, and marking the hotel’s corner spot on the postcard pretty backstreets.
The hotel has only 16 rooms and a suite, each unique, but all sharing a theatrical and dramatic style. It’s a bijou offering for a sophisticated and stylish city break.
The entire hotel was styled in 2005 by none other than the legendary fashion power house and icon Christian Lacroix. His trademark Victorianstyle bustle skirts were included in the bright mural on the wall of the bedroom I stayed in, along with layers of textures in the decor – leather covered walls, next to hessian walls, with a grand and beautiful heavy velvet curtain – just part of the design elements in my room that made my heart sing and my hands want to touch everything.
With a building so old, rooms are compact, and there is a rabbit-warren feel to the communal hallways and staircase. What it lacks in size, it makes up for in character. Christian Lacroix has added some elegant yet bold touches in every possible space.
With a property so quaint, the breakfast room doubles up as the residents-only honesty bar in the evening. It’s a bright and cheerful bistro, made even more so with the offerings of rainbow bright fruit salads and beautifully baked artisan breads and pastries served in baskets.
Speaking to the concierge, I discovered the hotel offers the most perfect way to discover Paris.
Happy to take a rest from pounding the pavements by foot, 2CV Paris Tours came to my rescue. I booked on a quirky tour of the city, being driven round in a vintage Citroen.
Our expert guide – and driver of the most beautiful lovingly restored Citroen C2 – had all the insider knowledge.
I opted for a ‘Paris by night’ tour, starting at 9pm. We were sitting in the backseat of this cute little car, the roof open, with the twinkling of the stars and the dark night sky.
As we zoomed round the quiet streets of Paris, our guide pointed out locally-known gems and updated me on insider stories about the area.
We were also taken to see the impressive Eiffel Tower, and seeing it sparkle in all its glory at the strike of the hour was a highlight. The rain held off, and it was a beautiful and memorable way to see such a beautiful city in all its glory.