Wine with Andy Cronshaw
RECENTLY I covered French cremant in some detail because I genuinely believe it’s the best budget sparkling wine available.
Some people however might prefer either the delicate, aromatic whisper of prosecco, the brooding intensity and majesty of Champagne or, as we exit the EU, the best fizz that the UK can offer.
SAINSBURY’S CONEGLIANO PROSECCO, TASTE THE DIFFERENCE 75CL (Down to £8 from £10)
Perhaps the best value prosecco available at the moment. It’s from the ‘Superiore’ zone of Conegliano Valdobbiadene and has plenty of flavour which is not always something you can say about prosecco. Peachy, zesty and crisp - I don’t think you’ll get better value.
WINE SOCIETY BELLINI CASE (£22.50, The Wine Society) The redoubtable Wine Society is offering this gift pack based around the Bellini, a cocktail invented in Venice. A brilliant alternative to a Bucks Fizz, this features the Society’s own Prosecco and Van Nahmen rhubarb or peach nectars.
DELLA VITE VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE DOCG NV ( Pictured, £25.99, Selfridges and Harvey Nichols)
So you love prosecco and perhaps prefer it to Champagne. You love its delicate floral aromas and tight m ineral palate and don’t mind paying for the best. This new upmarket example is probably what you need. It’s the product of a joint venture between Chloe, Poppy and Cara Delevingne. Made by Foss Marai winery in the hills of Valdobbiadene in the most prized vineyards of the region. Unlike most Prosecco producers Foss Marai cultivate and maintain their own indigenous yeast population which ties the final wine not just more specifically to where it’s grown but to where it’s fermented. As you might expect it comes in a beautiful looking package.
CHAMPAGNE
LES PIONNEERS NV CHAMPAGNE 75CL (£15, exclusive Co-op member price or £18, and Les Pioneers Vintage Champagne, down to £25 from £27)
Both of these Champagnes are made by a Grand Marque House although the Co-op keeps the identity secret. Both are superb for the money and better than many at this price range; the NV is fresh, clean with nougat flavours while the vintage is more complex and biscuity.
CHARLES HEIDSIECK BRUT RESERVE (£50, Reserve Wines, or £45, Wine Society or six for price of five, also available from Amazon and Laithwaites) and Rosé Reserve NV, or £66.50, Reserve Wines) If there’s a contender for the best non-vintage Champagne you can possibly buy, this is it. I’ve tasted these wines over and over again and they never fail to impress. It’s the house Champagne at my favourite local restaurant Hispi and there’s a reason it’s on the menu; it’s incredibly good. In order to maintain quality year after year the winemakers blend wine from several reserved vintages without ever compromising on quality. It’s everything you’d want Champagne to be; opulent and sophisticated with brioche and green apple freshness. The rosé is a different beast with an accent on summer berries and a hint of ginger on the nose. If you’ve saved up a bit of cash for Christmas/ New Year celebration while in lockdown or want to buy a Champagne lover a gift, look no further.
TAITTINGER NOCTURNE (£35, Tesco John Lewis, Champagne Direct)
If you’re looking for a Champagne to sip after dinner this is my favourite for the job. There’s a higher proportion of Pinot Noir used and a hefty dosage of cane sugar is used to produce a slightly off-dry wine. Deeply satisfying and rich.
ENGLISH FIZZ ROEBUCK ESTATES BLANC DE NOIRS 2015 (£45, roebuckestates.co.uk)
This 100 per cent Pinot Noir fizz, made in a historic site in the South Downs is the UK’s answer to the sort of sophisticated Pinot-dominated Champagne that is perfect at Christmas. Biscuity toast is married beautifully to apple fresh fruit with lime spiked acidity.