Wine with Andy Cronshaw
AFTER OVERESTIMATING the size of turkey needed at Christmas, I’ve now exceeded my need for tryptophan, the feel-good chemical which the bird provides in excess.
Meanwhile, I’ve also exhausted my brain thinking of new recipes for the leftover meat.
As a change of direction I’ll be throwing in the odd bavette steak, my favourite, and one of the cheapest cuts, among our healthy vegetable stir-fries and pasta dishes.
That is as good an excuse to drink warming, rich, satisfying red wine as any.
Some reds then to ward off the cold and the lockdown blues.
BANROCK STATION MERLOT 2020 (£7.50 CO-OP)
THE ultimate environmentally-friendly red for those who are concerned about the carbon footprint of wines from the New World, particularly Australasia. It comes in a flat plastic carbon neutral bottle made from 100 per cent recycled rPET plastic.
It’s almost 90 lighter than the average bottle. The wine is a pleasant surprise for the price tag with decently balanced blackberry fruit, warm spice and a smokey edge.
EL VIAJE DE RAMÓN RESERVA 2015 RAMÓN BILBAO 50CL (£7, CO-OP) A virtuous all-vegan 50cl bottle that offers less in the way of volume but more then enough character. A classic Rioja blend of Tempranillo, Mazuelo and Graciano. Ageing was in American oak barriques for 18 months, followed by a further 18 months in barrel. The result is a wine with typical Tempranillo liquorice and black fruit character, and sweet spice from barrel ageing.
JOURNEY’S END SIR LOWRY CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 (£14.99 WAITROSE AND WAITROSE WINE)
This really is a fireside wine with oak lending the nose roasted coffee, coconut and tobacco notes.
The fruit is rich with layers of blackberry and plum but the finish is dry with plenty of tannin to add a tea-like bite - perfect for steak or miso-based dishes.
TORRES SALMOS 2016 (£21.99, WAITROSE CELLAR)
If you’re a fan of bigger reds with plenty of toasty oak I can’t recommend this one more highly. In fact, it’s one of the best reds in its style and price bracket I tasted all year.
It really shows off the pre-eminence of Priorat in Catalonia where its ‘licorella’ slate and quartz soils mark it apart. Who knew that Carinera and Garnacha could produce such elegant wine?
This is a superb staging of a taste-scape that ranges from the unctuous waft of mocha coffee to fine filigree details in the lighter end of vibrant fruit.
Oaky, yes, but in the best possible way.
BLASON D’ISSAN, MARGAUX CHÂTEAU D’ISSAN (ABOUT £35 TO £40 ONLINE WINE RETAILERS)
It’s not often Margaux finds its way into this column - it’s too expensive for most people - me included.
This week, however, I thought I’d include the wine I’ll be drinking over a steak this weekend once work is out of the way and the holidays are being brought to a close.
The reason I have done so is that this wine, the younger brother of Chateau d’Issan’s Grand Vin, is a relatively affordable introduction to the delights of this wonderful appellation.
Margaux is characterised by its perfume and this wine boasts it in spades with violets dominating the fragrances.
Once past the ethereal nose there’s generous, deeply concentrated fruit which is nevertheless elegant and lithe.
“Balance with elegance, structure and charm”, as the estate owner Emmanuel Cruse succinctly puts it.
A great treat because you deserve it or a wonderful gift for those who love their Bordeaux.