Wine with Andy Cronshaw
THE red wines of Chianti Classico and Rufina have long been my favourites when it comes to dining.
Perfect for taking on midweek pasta dishes such as the lamb rib ragu we enjoyed this week, or easily able to take on Sunday roasts.
One of Tuscany’s more venerable and historic institutions, Frescobaldi, has some of the Chianti winegrowing region’s best vineyards as well as an extensive agricultural operation.
The Frescobaldi family have been making wine in the area for 700 years and
I joined Lamberto Frescobaldi this week for a Zoom call exploring some the wines from Tenuta Perano in Chianti Classico and Castello Nipozzano in Chianti Rufina.
Lamberto spoke eloquently about the techniques and rules of making top-notch Chianti. He said, among other things, that Sangiovese, the main grape in Chianti, performs best in arid well-drained soil.
Oak is used, but discreetly; Lamberto explaining that barrels are a double edged sword - their wines are never put in new oak and nowhere was there a woodiness to any of these wines.
These wines are not budget but are definitely worth sourcing for your grandest dinner party plans such as ‘bistecca alla fiorentina’.
FRESCOBALDI, CASTELLO NIPOZZANO, CHIANTI RUFINA 2018 (Top, £17, Morrisons)
Morrisons have really hit a home run by stocking this superb example of Rufina. What Rufina lacks in structure compared to Chianti Classico it makes up for in perfume. This has bags of floral aromas, violets in particular, and a lithe, fruit forward palate with Canaiolo adding a savoury note. Despite being the cheapest wine on the list, this wine really punches above its weight.
FRESCOBALDI, CASTELLO NIPOZZANO, CHIANTI RúFINA, VECCHIE VITI 2018 (£20-£25, Vinum, Noble Green Wines, Shelved Wine)
Further elegance and freshness is evident in this superlative Rufina with aromas of wild cherries and very well-balanced oak on the palate.
FRESCOBALDI, TENUTA PERANO, CHIANTI CLASSICO 2016 (Bottom, £24.50, Strictly Wine, Shelved Wine, Vinum) Textbook Classico with brambly fruit and a touch of mint about the nose. There’s intensity here and this wine is robust. It will pair well with hearty winter pasta soup or meat stews.
FRESCOBALDI, TENUTA PERANO, CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2016 (from £30 Strictly Wine, Vinum, Loki Wine) A splash of Merlot rounds out this superlative riserva that offers fresh floral aromas on the nose. The palate has a wellbalanced structure, a lick of licorice and fine, velvety tannins.