Top tips on how to get your bike through its MoT every time
Pass first time every time with this easy-to-follow guide
1 Dig out that standard plate
If you have a fitted a small plate, now is the time to refit the original because the size and lettering have to meet official standards. If you need a new plate making up, the supplier will ask to see your V5 reg docs. Plates from an authorised firm will carry the BS Kitemark. If your number plate is cracked or starting to discolour, it will probably fail.
How loud is too loud? 3
If your bike has a stock silencer all will be fine. Aftermarket exhausts shouldn’t be a problem either, providing they aren’t marked with ‘not for road use’ and aren’t louder than the original. If you’re in any doubt and still have the standard silencer, take it for the MoT with that fitted, as you will only have to have a retest with the standard silencer anyway should the bike fail.
Check your lights work 2
Your lights need to function correctly and the indicators (if fitted) must work and must flash at the right frequency. Sometimes aftermarket LEDs can cause them to flash too fast. Check the brake lights are coming on properly with both the lever and pedal. Are your headlights aimed at the right height? Don’t forget you should have reflectors on the rear of the bike.
Look for leaks 4
Fork seals will wear over time and emit a smear of oil on the chrome part of the stanchion when they need replacing. The rear shock also has oil damping and can leak too. The linkages around the rear shock are mounted in bushes or bearings. Check them by placing the bike on a stand; taking the weight off the rear wheel and swingarm and assessing any play.
Check your bearings 5
Raise the front wheel off the ground to check your steering bearings. You’ll need to hold the bottom of the forks and pull them backwards and forwards, feeling for play or knocking. With the wheel still in the air, turn the steering from left to right. It should feel smooth with no notchiness.
Is there life in your pads? 7
It’s often easier to remove the calipers for this one, rather than trying to peer down the side with a torch. There needs to be an obvious amount of usable friction material, with the minimum for sintered pads being 1mm and organic pads 1.5mm front and rear. Assess the condition of the discs by spinning the wheel to make sure they run true.
Give your swingarm a once-over 9
Swingarm bearings have to work hard and can wear, so test them by holding the rear wheel at the back and with your other hand on the frame try pulling and pushing the wheel sideways, there should be zero play. While you are at it, check that the swingarm doesn’t catch on any other parts of the bike over the full range of its up and down movement.
Is there enough tread? 6
Any bike over 50cc must have 1mm of tread across ¾ of the width of the tread marks. It’s also worth making sure the size and type of tyre is correct – have a look in your owner’s manual if you’re unsure. Check their overall condition, keeping an eye open for cracks, bulges or cuts.
Spin the wheels 8
Check your wheel bearings by first spinning the wheel and checking for binding or rumbling. With the wheel in the air, hold it at opposite sides and try and move it from side to side, looking and feeling for any play. Do the same for both wheels and also check the rear sprocket carrier if it’s mounted via rubber cush drives, as this often has its own bearing inside.
Chain feeling the strain? 10
The chain should be adjusted correctly with no signs of significant wear. If a link is fitted, it should be secure and if it’s a split link, it should face the right direction with the open end facing backwards when the link is on the top of the rear sprocket. The tester will be looking for excessively worn sprockets and tight spots in chains.