How to change a wheel
Follow this guide to make a tricky job quick and simple
1 It’s a juggling act
Removing a rear wheel is easy, the difficulty comes when it’s time to reassemble everything. Things like making sure the spacers are in the correct sides and lining up the brake pads, caliper brackets and swingarm ready to accept the spindle mean even if you have a spare pair of hands, the process can be challenging.
Wood is good 2
Place your bike on its main stand or a paddock stand. Find a suitable piece of wood to chock up the rear wheel. Ideally it should be slightly tapered so that it slips under the wheel with only a millimetre or two spare. The idea is that when you remove the spindle the wheel does not drop out and spill spacers and adjusters all over the floor.
Whip off then wedge 3
Check your workshop manual for the specific detail on wheel removal because some machines might need a silencer or rear caliper removing before the wheel can be taken out. Wedge the block of wood under the tyre, remove the spindle and then roll the wheel forward so that the chain becomes completely slack.
Chain off, spacers out 4
Make sure there is enough slack in the bike’s chain to pull it off of the rear sprocket and drape it over the swingarm. With the chain moved to one side the wheel is free to be removed. Roll it back gently until the spacers are just about to fall out. Remove spacers from each side and place them on the floor on their respective sides.
5 Ready for reinstallation
With the wheel removed and any cleaning or necessary service work carried out, the wheel needs to be readied for reinstallation. Make sure the sprocket cush drive is properly positioned, and that any spacers behind it are located. Line the wheel up ready to roll it on to the piece of wood.
6 Refit the bits
Roll the wheel up to the position just before the spacers will fit in. At this point fit the spacers either side; depending on the bike this can often be done prior to lining up the rear brake caliper and pads. Next, slide the caliper over the disc so that the brake pads are either side of it.
7 Refit the chain
Move the wheel forward enough so that the chain can be refitted to the rear sprocket and pull the wheel back roughly into place so that the spacers line up with the holes in the swingarm. Then fit the chain adjusters and check that they line up correctly. If they do not, wiggle the wheel until everything is in the correct place.
8 Get ready with the spindle
Sometimes even though everything is lined up the spindle will refuse to go in smoothly. If this happens find a metal bar or something slightly smaller in diameter than the spindle, such as a extension bar from a 1/2-inch drive socket set. Insert into the spindle hole from the opposite side and give it a wiggle to help line everything up.
9 Spindle in
Make sure the spindle is clean and free from corrosion, then apply a light amount of grease before inserting it into the swingarm with the help of a rubber mallet. If the spindle stops suddenly and refuses to go in, give the wheel another wiggle and try again. When it goes all the way through, check the tension of the chain and adjust to spec.
10 Tighten, torque and check
Tighten any locknuts on the chain adjusters then torque the spindle nut up to spec. Spin the wheel to make sure it rotates with no binding. Fit any split pins or R-clips to secure the spindle nut. Finally, pump the rear brake lever until it feels solid and check that the wheel is still free wheeling in between brake pumps.